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Ancient Hanfu Bzi, How to Tie the Bow of a Hanfu Sash Around the Waist
Shanzi, which are single-layer garments, were a popular style during the Northern Song Dynasty. They could be short, reaching the waist, or long, reaching the knees. Generally speaking, we call single-layer garments shanzi and double-layer garments aozi, with not much difference beyond that. Nowadays, many Hanfu merchants sell shanzi and bzi together. Actually, the main difference between shanzi and bzi is that bzis are ankle-length, while shanzi can vary in length. Additionally, shanzi is typically worn as the first layer, while bzi is worn as the second layer over the shanzi. Hanfu styles often worn by Hanfu enthusiasts include: quju, zhiju, gao Yao ruqun, ruqun, round-collar robes, bzi, Zhu Xi's deep clothing, xuanduan, etc. Quju was popular during the Qin and Han dynasties and basically disappeared by the Tang dynasty; by the Ming dynasty, it was considered "ancient attire." Zhiju was popular during the Qin and Han dynasties and later developed into various styles, such as zhidi and zhishen. Japanese kimono greatly draws inspiration from this style. Ruqun, as women's attire, has been a basic style in almost every dynasty. Bzi, a popular fashion in the Song and Ming dynasties, saw large-sleeved bzis in the Song dynasty with embroidery along… -
Hanfu Making(4) – Beizi Cutting & Sewing Patterns
This section contains Beizi (褙子), which can be divided into: Xie Duijin Beizi(斜对襟褙子), Zhi Duijin Beizi (直对襟褙子). Size range: 155/80A to 175/96A. Please read the introduction of the topic and how to use this guide in advance. Introduction Beizi is a kind of top with a pair of lapels, which relies on two ties in front of the chest to hold it in place, so it must be worn over other clothes, and is knee-length with slits on both sides. In the Ming Dynasty, it was also called "Pifeng". Beizi can be worn by both men and women, with men mostly using them as Bianfu (便服) and women using them as Lifu (礼服, formal dresses). There are two types of Beizi painted in this section: Xie Duijin (diagonal lapels) Beizi and Zhi Duijin (straight lapels) Beizi, mainly women's wide-sleeved Beizi, with a Ma Mian Qun or pleated skirt underneath. In addition, for the Zhi Duijin Beizi, you can make men's Beizi by enlarging the size and making slight alterations, or you can make women's narrow-sleeved Beizi by reducing the size of the sleeves. Size chart Xie Duijin Beizi(斜对襟褙子) Zhi Duijin Beizi (直对襟褙子) More Hanfu Style… -
A Brief History of Chinese Outfit for Girl – Bijia (vest)
Bijia (比甲) is a kind of Chinese outfit, it is a sleeveless and collarless vest, with two sides split to the knee. Its style is longer than that of the later vest, generally to the hip or knee, some longer, less than a ruler (about 33 cm long) from the ground. The main function is to keep warm, the advantage is very convenient, Bijia popular in the Yuan and Ming Dynasties. Origin & Development of Bijia Bijia was designed and made by the empress of Kublai Khan (the emperor of the Yuan Dynasty). At the beginning of the Yuan Dynasty, Bijia was worn by the emperor, and later gradually became popular among the people. Since the application of buttons in clothes appeared in the Yuan Dynasty, buttons have also been used in Bijia, which is more convenient and compact to wear. This is a new change in traditional Chinese outfits. Shape & Wear Style of Bijia In the Yuan Dynasty, Bijia was sleeveless and collarless, and the back of the garment was longer than the front, with two buttons made of thread on each side of the split, it was originally designed for the convenience of riding. The front chest… -
Hanfu Making(9) – Zhiduo Zhishen Daopao Cutting & Sewing Patterns
This section contains Zhiduo (直裰), Zhishen (直身), Daopao (道袍). Size range: 165/88A to 185/104A. Please read the introduction of the topic and how to use this guide in advance. Introduction Zhiduo is a kind of costume from the Song Dynasty, the initial is mostly worn by monks, a few literati also wear, Song Zhiduo is generally not slit. By the Ming Dynasty, Zhiduo had become widely popular among literati and scholars, and the basic features of Ming Zhiduo were the cross collar, knee-length garment, slit on both sides without Bai (摆), generally with a collar guard on the collar, and mostly with pipa sleeves. The cutting and sewing patterns in this chapter are based on Ming Zhiduo. Zhishen was also an important costume of the Ming Dynasty, as well as Zhiduo and Daopao, the basic features of Zhishen are the same as Zhiduo, with a cross collar, more collar protection, pipa sleeves, and knee-length, but the difference is that there is outside Bai on both sides in Zhishen. Daopao is one of the traditional costumes of Taoism, but it was also the main style of casual wear and dress for scholars in the Ming Dynasty, so Daopao was not…
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