Brocade

Nanjing Cloud Brocade (云锦, Yunjin) is a traditional Chinese silk craft that dates back to 417 and has a history of 1,600 years, known as "inch of brocade, inch of gold". Today, the traditional characteristics and unique skills of cloud brocade are still maintained, and the traditional jacquard wooden machine weaving has been retained. This traditional hand weaving technique, which relies on human memory to weave, still cannot be replaced by modern machines. In the ancient silk fabric, "brocade (Jin, 锦)" is the fabric representing the highest level of technology. The three famous Chinese brocades are cloud brocade, Shu brocade (蜀锦), and Song brocade (宋锦), and Nanjing cloud brocade is a collection of the art of weaving silk craft of all generations, ranking the first, represents the highest achievement of Chinese silk weaving, and is the brilliant crystallization of Chinese silk culture. This article will share the history, characteristics of Chinese silk crafts: the Nanjing Yun brocade.   History of Nanjing Cloud Brocade At the end of the Eastern Jin Dynasty, Liu Yu destroyed the Later Qin and moved the craftsmen workers to Nanjing, where advanced production techniques were brought to the south from Xi'an and the silk weaving industry…

Hanfu is the traditional costume of the Chinese nation. In addition to the shape, color matching, and pattern, the fabric also plays an important role and is closely related to our wearing experience. According to textile technology, the fabric of traditional Hanfu can be divided into brocade, damask, silk, silk, gauze, crepe, silk, and satin. Most of the traditional fabrics are mainly silk fabrics, supplemented by cotton and hemp. There are many kinds of traditional fabrics with exquisite styles, but the cost is usually very high. Now, with the development of modern technology, there are many kinds of fabrics for the public to choose from. Next, we will introduce several common Hanfu fabrics in the market. 1. Cotton Cotton is a huge fabric system. By blending the cotton fiber with other materials in modern textile technology, cotton fabric has many new characteristics, such as wrinkle resistance, wear resistance, gloss, and so on. Now common in the Hanfu market are pure cotton, cotton hemp, jacquard cotton, burnt cotton, slubbed cotton, etc. Cotton and linen garments have a history of 4000 years. They are natural and simple in color and texture, giving people a soft impression of returning to simplicity. Using it…

The wedding ceremony is the essence of ancient Chinese traditional culture. In ancient times, when the girl went out of the pavilion, there were red sedan chairs and a huge procession of honor guards to greet the bride. After worshipping heaven and earth, they would lift their heads again. The bride was dressed in a Chinese dress with a phoenix crown and a bridegroom in a top scholar’s suit. It has become a new fashion for modern people to pursue cultural roots and regain traditional folk customs. But the traditional bride’s dress, can bring the brilliance which only once in the woman’s life, lets the person lifelong unforgettable, leaves the good memory. She wears a beautiful Phoenix crown on her head and a red square scarf on her head. She wears a red silk shirt inside and a red robe with embroidery on her outside. She wears a sky lock on her neck and a demon lens on her chest. She wears a red skirt, red trousers and red satin embroidered shoes. She is so charming and charming that she gives herself a happy and unforgettable wedding. The design of traditional lapel and classic stand collar is perfectly combined with…

In the context of the Chinese language, "Ling Luo Chou Duan" usually refers to various exquisite silk fabrics. However, there are many types of ancient Chinese fabrics, and "Ling Luo Chou Duan" cannot cover them all. This article will briefly introduce how to identify various Chinese ancient hanfu fabrics such as "yarn, silk, brocade, velvet", and so on. However, it should be noted that the names of each textile organization in different dynasties are not exactly the same. They have also developed over time, so this is just a general explanation to give everyone a simple impression.   Structure of Ancient Chinese Fabrics The common structures in Chinese fabrics are needed to determine the relationship between each yarn, which is the pattern of overlapping warp and weft yarns in the fabric. There are five common types of structures, which are also known as San Yuan structures. Ping Wen Structure Ping Wen structure (plain weave) is woven with the warp and weft threads alternating over and under each other. Plain weave fabrics are durable and resistant to wear, but have less elasticity and a lower sheen. If you touch it, you will find that the feel is hard, but relatively thin.…

As a traditional Chinese costume, Hanfu not only interprets the unique Chinese clothing culture but also shows the long history of Chinese traditional costume. So how to buy a suitable Hanfu for yourself? Fashion Hanfu explains to you how to choose the most suitable Hanfu from the aspects of fabric, pattern, and style. 1. Fabric The quality of the fabric determines whether the Hanfu is high-grade or not. If the fabric is too rough, even if the style is good-looking, it will give people a low-cost rough feeling, not only won’t let you beauty down all living beings, but also give people a strange feeling, without the softness and delicacy of Hanfu. The fabrics of classical Hanfu are mainly divided into brocade, silk, silk, Luo, silk, cloth, cotton, hemp, yarn, etc. Modern Hanfu materials are mainly divided into chiffon, silk, cotton and hemp, blended cotton and hemp. In a word, no matter what kind of fabric you choose, the most important thing is to breathe. Don’t choose Hanfu with bad materials just for the sake of small and cheap. It will not only damage your skin, but also affect the overall beauty of Hanfu. Hanfu itself is smart, elegant, natural,…

Fabric and craftsmanship are both very important aspects of hanfu making. In this article, several common hanfu fabric processes will be briefly introduced to you.   Zhuang Hua Zhuang Hua (妆花) is the most complex variety of weaving technology in Nanjing cloud brocade, and also the representative jacquard silk weaving variety with the most local characteristics of Nanjing, was popular in the Ming and Qing Dynasties. Traditional Zhuang Hua is made of artificial weaving, and the Zhuang Hua on nowadays are all "imitation Zhuang Hua", which are made by machines. The Zhuang Hua fabric is characterized by many colors and is rich in color changes. In terms of the weaving method, the pattern on the fabric is partially painted by using a colored fleece weft bobbin. The color matching is very free and there are no restrictions. The main pattern of the design is usually expressed in two or three levels of color, and some patterns are expressed in simple color (such as pedicels, leaves, and buds). A piece of Zhuang Hua fabric with patterns and colors can be matched in more than a dozen or even 20 or 30 colors. Although there are many colors of Zhuang Hua, but…

Kesi (缂丝), the most traditional type of silk weaving in the Chinese silk industry, which is highly appreciated for its decorative qualities. Kesi is a kind of pattern with warp and weft, forming a pattern border, with the effect as if was carved, and rich two-sided three-dimensional sense of silk crafts. The knitting technique of Kesi is different from the embroidery and brocade. Suzhou Kesi painting is also known as the "Four Great Weavers" of China, along with Hangzhou silk painting, Yongchun paper painting and Sichuan bamboo curtain painting. The Kesi technique has appeared many times in the collection of ancient costume dramas, such as the delicate Kesi fans in the hands of the concubines of “Story of Yanxi Palace”, adding endless style to them. The another drama “Marvelous Women” which take the Qing Dynasty as the background, has restored the weaving scene of the Kesi.   The Uniqueness of Kesi Different from the weaving method of Song brocade, Shu brocade, cloud brocade which are woven through the warp and weft. Kesi with raw silk as the warp, a variety of colorful cooked silk threads for the weft, which are dug and woven by the method of passing through the…