History & Culture

Chinese opera (戏曲, xìqǔ) can be tracked to as far back as the Northern Qi Dynasty, and since then has grown into the instantly-recognizable spectacle of music, costumes, and drama it is today. Its characters are especially memorable as they sing, act, and fight across the stage. There are four main types of roles in opera: Dan, Sheng, Jing, and Chou. Dan Dan (旦) is a broad term that refers to all female roles in Chinese opera. Subtypes within the Dan role include Guimen Dan, young women whose parts focused on vocal performance, Zheng Dan (also known as Qingyi Dan), older higher-class women, and Wudan, who specialize in acrobatics and do not often sing. Up until the late Qing Dynasty, all roles, including the Dan, were played by men. Mei Lanfang, considered one of the “four great Dan,” was one such male Dan performer who pioneered an entire new subtype of Dan and was considered by some to be the greatest vocal artist in modern China. Mei also played a key role in popularizing Chinese opera outside of China over the course of a 50-year career. Male Dan roles were made obsolete during the Cultural Revolution, but the legacies of those…

Since the Chinoiserie style became very popular, Dunhuang culture has naturally become one of the focuses. Many Chinese actresses and hanfu models have tried the Dunhuang flying apsaras. Dunhuang flying apsaras, as the top popular exotic culture, how is it possible to combine grandeur and ebullience in such an ingenious way? It all starts with the Dunhuang murals.   The Origin of Dunhuang Frescoes During the Northern and Southern Dynasties, the divisive political situation made people’s lives turbulent. The concept of Buddhism’s compassion and salvation provided comfort to suffering people and developed rapidly. There was a monk on way to the west, passing through Dunhuang and encountered a golden light spectacle, identified as a holy place. He hired the craftsman to dig caves here and carve Buddha statues. Over time, not only the princes and nobles, and even the common people have come to Dunhuang to excavate Buddhist caves, then the scale of the grottoes gradually expanded. Gradually, Dunhuang, located at the west end of the Hexi Corridor, has become a true fertile land for the spread of Buddhism, forged a rich treasure house of art and culture. Grand, magnificent, and surpassingly beautiful, Dunhuang has an unparalleled aesthetic background, known…

As a symbol of good fortune, Ruyi (如意, scepter) is a traditional handicraft unique to China that emerged during the Warring States period and has evolved in form and cultural connotation through the Han, Wei, and Jin dynasties, Tang, Song, and even Ming and Qing dynasties. Interestingly, the initial function of the Ruyi is the same as the backscratcher we use today. Only later did it evolve from a practical tool to a beautiful display at a later stage. Origin of Ruyi According to the National Palace Museum, Ruyi originated from the "Sao Zhang (搔杖)" (now called backscratcher) used by the ancients to scratch an itch. The earliest Ruyi, the end of the handle in the shape of a finger, to reach that the hand can not reach, so that can follow heart to relieve the itch, so-called Ruyi. Later, the "Sao Zhang" was combined with "Hu (笏, referring to the hand board used by courtiers to record their business at court)", and the shape gradually evolved into a curved head, and the end of the handle changed from straight to small Lingzhi-shaped, cloud-shaped and other shapes. The head and tail echo each other, the main body is streamlined, the…

In history, there have been many beautiful clothing styles in every period, such as the Chinese cheongsam, which has formed a unique clothing culture, and the Pan Kou, which was born in response, has gradually developed from an ancient sash to a cheongsam accessory that is both practical and decorative, thus forming a unique handcrafted skill.   01 Origin of Pan Kou The button of the cheongsam is called Pan Kou (盘扣, Chinese frog closures) or Pan Niu (盘钮), which is a kind of button used in traditional Chinese clothing, used to fasten the lapel or decoration, it is developed from the ancient Chinese knot. The Bei Zi (褙子) unearthed in the Southern Song tomb in De'an, Jiangxi, was tied with Pan Kou. This shows that as early as the Song Dynasty in China, people used Pan Kou to fasten loose clothes. The role of Pan Kou in the evolution of Chinese clothing has changed, it not only has the function of connecting the lapels, but is also known as the finishing touch to decorate clothing. It vividly expresses the decorative interest of Chinese costumes that emphasize meaning, connotation, and theme.   02 The production and types of cheongsam button…

The "Jiaoling Youren (交领右衽, cross-collar-and-right-wrapped, the left lapel covers the right lapel when wearing)" based on flat cutting is a typical collar that has been passed down in the Chinese civilization for thousands of years. It fully embodies the diverse and integrated pattern since ancient times, carries Chinese common cultural connotation as a nation, and is a symbol of the spiritual essence extracted from the long history of Chinese civilization. Chinese traditional costumes are profound and have a long history, Jiaoling Youren is like main threads linking thousands of years' of flowery clouds together to inherit continuously with boundless beauty. The character "衣 (clothing)" already existed in oracle bone script which reveals its structural feature: two lapels overlap each other forming into textual symbols.   01 What is Jiaoling Youren One of the most prominent features of Hanfu is the collar design that crosses left over right to form a "Y" shape known as the Jiaoling Youren style. This collar design has more than 5,000 years of history since Zhou Dynasty. Even though Hanfu keeps innovating with different styles such as straight collars, tank tops, and stand-up collars, the cross-collared Hanfu still maintains its mainstream position among these styles.  …

We have previously detailed a few ancient Chinese robes from the Ming Dynasty (Zhiduo/Taoist/Zhishen), most of which are suitable for scholars, but today we will introduce you to 2 more martial styles ancient Chinese robes for men: Tieli & Yisan. You may often find these two classic Chinese costumes at Hanfu festivals or events, they are very eye-catching and handsome. Tieli (贴里) [History and characteristics of Tieli] Tieli is usually worn under a round-necked robe and Dahu (褡护, a type of clothing that belongs to the Banbi), which makes the wide hem of the robe slightly outward and dignified. Tieli is the Mongolian word for the robe and is an import from the Yuan Dynasty. After being inherited by the Ming Dynasty, the garment was lengthened, and the overall structure closer to Shenyi system of the Hanfu, and integrated the Han "orthodox" rituals, and later became the most common ancient Chinese robes, and is a common style of the Ming Dynasty officials (up to the Feiyu suit, down to military uniforms). narrow sleeve Tieli, in the collection of the Shandong Museum of Art Features of the Tieli include: Jiaolingyouren (交领右衽), the front and back of the garment are cut separates…

The ancient armor is to some extent equivalent to the present military uniforms, which is the image of an army and therefore must be decorated. The decoration actually works in two ways, on the one hand, it is to show the good image of the mighty and on the other hand, it is to protect the armor from erosion. Leather armor is easy to rot and iron armor is easy to rust, both need to be protected by some decorative methods. The main methods of Chinese armor decoration are as follows.   Paint, coloring Before Han and Wei either the leather armor or the iron armor, the armor pieces are painted, and repeatedly painted with multi-layer paint. Most of the Warring States' leather armors was black, according to the painted traces of terracotta warriors and horses, and the armor of the Qin Dynasty was mostly black. Many written records of the Han Dynasty armor are called Xuanjia (玄甲, black armor), and the armors of painted warrior figurines are also painted black. The color of black is a bit monotonous, so there is the idea of applying gold and silver pieces on the armor for decoration and painting at the same…

Chinese silk dress has a history of thousands of years in China. Wearing a silk dress has become a symbol of wealth and status. Silk is a special product of China. The ancient Chinese working people invented and produced silk products on a large scale, which opened the first large-scale trade exchange between the East and the West in world history, known as the silk road. History of Silk In ancient times, silk was a kind of textile woven by silk. Due to the expansion of textile materials in modern times, all textiles woven with man-made or natural filament fibers can be called generalized silk. The silk made of pure silk is also called "real silk". Since the Western Han Dynasty, China's silk has been shipped abroad in large quantities, becoming a world-famous product. At that time, the road from China to the West was called the "Silk Road" by Europe, and China was also called the "Silk Country". In ancient times, China began to raise silkworms for silk. In 1925, an antique was unearthed in Shanxi Province. According to the research of archaeologists, is the cocoon shell, it is about 1.36cm long and 1.04cm wide, which provides the earliest…

China has a splendid costume history, but the splendor of the ancients has gone with the years, and we can only recall it through historical records and archaeological discoveries. Fortunately, there is someone who can use his exquisite painting skills to rigorously and meticulously restore the ancient Chinese clothing and trace the history of the delicate and gorgeous. Today, we are going to share with you the ancient Chinese clothing timeline and experience the charm of Chinese clothing together.   Shang Dynasty (c. 16th-11th century BC) Features: The main feature of the Shang dynasty dress is "upper garment, lower Chang (裳), Youren (右衽), hair bunch". The upper half of the body wears clothes, the lower half of the body wears Chang, Chang is the skirt. Noble men's dress (left): The head wears the tall Ge(葛) cloth crown. The Yue-shaped cloth hanging from the front abdomen was a sign of noble status, and was often referred to in later literature as the "Bixi (蔽膝)". The pattern on it is based on the Leiwen depicted on the Shang dynasty Yuge in the collection of the Palace Museum. The boots worn by the feet are painted on the basis of pottery boots excavated from…

Chinese Intangible cultural heritage is no longer just stay in the museum for the public today. As of November 2021, the number of Chinese intangible cultural heritage projects is 1,557. In addition to the old traditional folk crafts to be guarded by the old generation, the most important thing is to combine innovative elements with the deep-rooted intangible cultural heritage. Tencent Video has crossed over with Chinese traditional craftsmen from different fields to create new peripheral works using traditional cultural elements and skills for a number of popular cdramas, documentaries and variety show IPs. This is not only the heritage of traditional Chinese culture, but also new ideas for Chinoiserie gifts. Let's see what wonderful artworks they bring together.   NO.1 Rong Hua: Tradition, Ultimate Romance Rong Hua (绒花) was first introduced as a tribute to the royal family in the Tang Dynasty, and was also known as "Palace Flower", which means good luck and blessing. Most of them use a combination of harmonics and artistic images to express. After "Story of Yanxi Palace" became a big hit, the female character of the costume drama "Court Lady", which was broadcasted this year, wore snowflakes on her head, which again brought…

Kesi (缂丝), the most traditional type of silk weaving in the Chinese silk industry, which is highly appreciated for its decorative qualities. Kesi is a kind of pattern with warp and weft, forming a pattern border, with the effect as if was carved, and rich two-sided three-dimensional sense of silk crafts. The knitting technique of Kesi is different from the embroidery and brocade. Suzhou Kesi painting is also known as the "Four Great Weavers" of China, along with Hangzhou silk painting, Yongchun paper painting and Sichuan bamboo curtain painting. The Kesi technique has appeared many times in the collection of ancient costume dramas, such as the delicate Kesi fans in the hands of the concubines of “Story of Yanxi Palace”, adding endless style to them. The another drama “Marvelous Women” which take the Qing Dynasty as the background, has restored the weaving scene of the Kesi.   The Uniqueness of Kesi Different from the weaving method of Song brocade, Shu brocade, cloud brocade which are woven through the warp and weft. Kesi with raw silk as the warp, a variety of colorful cooked silk threads for the weft, which are dug and woven by the method of passing through the…

Much of Chinese culture involves Chinese myths. To understand the many festivals and holidays of China, here are 3 popular Chinese myths that you might find interesting:     The New Year Legend The Chinese New Year legend begans in a small village thousands of years ago. Every winter, a monster with the body of a bull and a head of a lion would enter this village and attack the villagers. The monster is called a “Nian.” The villagers were scared and didn’t know what to do. Until a wise old man came up with an idea! The next time the Nian appeared to attack their village, the people would use fireworks and drums to scare of the monster! The plan worked perfectly and the monster fled into the hills. From today onwards, every year on the day they scared off the monster, they would light fireworks and celebrate their victory. This day was the start of the Chinese New Year and the Spring Festival.   Houyi and Chang’e - The Mid-Autumn Festival Houyi and Chang’e is an immortal couple living in heaven, according to the legends. One day, the ruler of all heavens, the Jade Emperor, orders Houyi for…

Chinese painting is the art of brush and ink applied on Xuan (paper) or silk. The basic tools are those of calligraphy, which has influenced painting in both style and theory. Characteristics and Categories of Chinese Painting A distinctive basic characteristic of this painting is that ideas and motifs are presented primarily in the form of lines and dots in ink, rather than in color, proportion, and perspective. These works are conceived with the aid of brushes composed of handle and head. The handle is usually made of bamboo or wood, while the head is made of animal hair, usually sheep or wolf. The heads are soft and flexible, and suitably fit the style of Chinese painting. Usually, only black ink is used, and silk and thin paper are used for the "canvases". Chinese painting falls into three main categories: portraits, landscapes, and flowers and birds. Of the three traditions, the oldest is portraiture, dominating the scene until the late Tang dynasty. In general, landscape paintings depicted mountains and water, influenced by the Taoist tradition of seeking solitude in nature. Landscape dominated in the 11th century, becoming a favorite motif of artists. Even today, when a Chinese says a place…

The Qingming Festival is coming up soon! Learn more about where this holiday came from and some things that you can do to participate in celebrating it, both in the way of the ancients and the way that people do now. As the weather warms up bit by bit, the next important Chinese holiday, the Qingming Festival (清明節 qing ming jie), is drawing closer as well! Also known as Tomb-Sweeping Day or Clear Brightness Day (direct translation of the words that make up its Chinese name), it’s usually celebrated in the first few days of April of the Gregorian calendar—in 2022, it’ll be on April 5th. But where did this festival come from, and how has its related traditions evolved over time? And what are some different ways that you participate in celebrating it as a hanfu and ancient chinese culture enthusiast? Let’s address these questions one by one.   How did the Qingming Festival begin? Originally, the Qingming Festival wasn’t called 清明節 at all. It was called the Hánshí Jié(寒食節), the Cold Food Festival, and had a very rich backstory to it. During the Spring and Autumn period of the Zhou Dynasty, in the Jin State (晉), a prince…

Among the many Tang Dynasty relics in the Xinjiang Museum's History Hall, two painted clay women figurines on horses are particularly attractive: "Horse and Female Rider". One is from Turpan Astana Tomb No. 187, excavated in 1972, showing a woman with dignified features, wearing a Wei Mao (帷帽), holding the reins in her left hand and sitting on top of a saddle, a typical image of a noblewoman riding a horse at that time. The other figurine was excavated in 1973 from Turpan Astana Tomb No. 216 and shows a woman riding a red horse with white skin and red lips, wearing a Wei Mao, which is quite charming. Looking at these two figurines of ladies, we can see a scene in our mind: in the city of Gaochang more than a thousand years ago, during the early spring, several fashionable Tang dynasty women wearing Wei Mao and riding their horses slowly, the ladies seem to be talking about something; and not far away, under the pavilion, a noblewoman with a graceful physique is concentrating on playing Go.   Mysterious underground history museum Astana is known as the "Underground Museum of Turpan", the ancient tombs are located in the northern suburbs…

In the annals of Chinese history, the Qing Dynasty stands as the final imperial dynasty, ruled by the Manchu ethnic group from 1644 to 1912. Emerging from the northeastern regions between the White Mountains and Black Water, the Manchu people forged a remarkable dynasty that left an indelible mark on Chinese culture and society for nearly three centuries. The roots of the Manchu people trace back to the ancient Jurchen tribes who inhabited the northeastern territories over two millennia ago. Evolving through centuries of interaction and assimilation, they eventually formed distinct identities such as the Jianzhou Jurchens and later, the Manchus. Their cultural evolution was profoundly influenced by interactions with neighboring civilizations, particularly the Han Chinese, leading to the adoption and adaptation of various political, economic, and cultural systems. Central to Manchu identity were their unique customs and traditions, manifesting prominently in their daily lives, attire, and architecture. One of the most iconic features was the traditional male hairstyle known as "Shaving the Front and Braiding the Back." This practice symbolized allegiance to Manchu traditions and was mandatory for men across all societal strata during the Qing Dynasty. Similarly, women adhered to modest dress codes, notably seen in the elegant…

  Vocabulary Velvet Flower - 绒花 (rónghuā) - a realistically made flower made artificially from silk threads and copper wire. Palace Flower - 宫花 (gōng huā) - another way to call ronghua with the rise in popularities of ronghua to females in the palace. Untwisted Silks - 无捻蚕丝 (wú niǎn cánsī) - when it comes to silk threads, depending on the type and material of the threads, one single thread can be made up of thinner threads twisted together. Untwisted silk thread means there are no smaller twisted threads. You can directly skip to the brushing steps in ronghua making process. Hunan Embroidery Thread - 湘绣线 (xiāngxiù xiàn) - another type of thread used in ronghua making. Suzhou Embroidery Thread - 苏绣线 (sūxiù xiàn) - another type of thread used in ronghua making.   History 绒花, rónghuā, an artificial handcraft head accessories made from materials such as silks and coppers. It existed since the Qin Dynasty. There are many known “brands” of ronghuas, such as Nanjing Ronghua. In the Tang era, Wu Zetian listed Nanjing Ronghua as a royal tribute to the Yangzhou area becoming a luxury only princes and princesses can use. Eventually, Nanjing Ronghua became something that represents Nanjing but also…

Wearing incense sachets in daily life, or burning the incense burner when reading or sipping tea, the pursuit of fragrance by the ancient Chinese surpassed even modern times. The combination of form and spirit is the ancients revered spiritual states. Clothing provided the form of the real state, while the flavor implied in the air gave the spirit part. The documentary "The Flavor of History" features a unique perspective that brings hanfu and flavor together again.   Tang Dynasty Ruilongnao (瑞龙脑) is produced in the country of Brahma (now Brunei). In addition to growing in hot places, it needs to be smoked to release its aroma. But its flavor is as cool and pure as its appearance, like a contradictory combination of noisy and silent, entwined and moving. In the clothing system of the Tang Dynasty, color was an important clue to distinguish the superior and inferior. According to the Book of Tang - Records of Yufu, the emperor's regular clothes are Chi Huang (赤黄, a color between yellow and red, #F8CE00) robes, Fu Tou (幞头), nine rings belt, and Liu He boots (六合靴)". At the time of Emperor Gaozu of the Tang Dynasty, it was officially stipulated that Chi Huang…

What is Da Hu? Da Hu(褡护, dā hù), also known as "搭护", which was a type of Bianfu(便服, casual wear) in the Ming Dynasty. The Tong Ya says: "Da Hu is a shirt with bald sleeves", which means sleeveless, indicating that the Da Hu was a long garment with short sleeves or no sleeves, and had a certain origin with the Banbi of the Tang and Song dynasties. The "Juyi Record" records that: "The name of the Da Hu, or along with the Yuan dynasty, its style is not the Yuan dynasty Da Hu, when it is a slightly longer than the Gua (褂), a short-sleeved clothes." The basic form of Da Hu is cross collar, wrapping the right side before the left (交领右衽), with white collar protector, short sleeves or no sleeves, slit on both sides of the body, and the slit is connected with the outer or inner hem. In the Ming Dynasty, the Da Hu was a kind of half-sleeved dress with a hem outside, which was part of the dres's system of Ming officials. How to wear the Da Hu? What to wear inside the Da Hu? Da Hu early is often used as a jacket,…

Recently, Zhou Xun's Qipao (旗袍, cheongsam) dress look in the movie "Hidden Blade" brought this traditional costume back into the spotlight. If it is said that every era has representative clothing, then, the Republic of China women's closet must not be missing one cheongsam.   01 Fashionable clothing in the Republic of China period Qipao dress can be said to be the most representative clothing in the Republic of China. For social needs, the ladies also often update cheongsam style. Song Meiling often wore cheongsam, when she went to the United States to seek support for the war, especially when she spoke in the U.S. Congress, the image of a black satin cheongsam stunned the crowd, while boarding the major U.S. magazines. The popularity of the cheongsam owes much to the successful incorporation of practical Western elements without losing traditional Chinese features. Although designated as one of the Chinese dresses, the Qipao dress is actually a Western-style wear under a Chinese-style appearance. On the outside, the Qipao dress still adheres to the traditional Chinese elements such as silhouette, Pankou, and vertical collar, and the custom of "right overlapping" is also retained, which constitutes the unique aesthetic form of the Qipao…

China has a long history of tea drinking, which emerged in the Tang Dynasty and became prosperous in the Song Dynasty. It is in this context that the story of A Dream of Splendor takes place. In the drama, Liu Yifei as Zhao Pan'er, together with two girlfriends, opened a tea store in Bian Jing, the capital of the Song Dynasty. With Zhao Pan'er's excellent marketing skills, Sun San Niang's delicious pastries, Song Yin Zhang's wonderful Pipa performance, and most importantly, Pan'er's extensive experience in Dian Cha, as well as Cha Bai Xi, their tea store has achieved initial success. Cha Bai Xi Dian Cha (点茶, whisking tea), as an important part of Chinese tea culture, is the main tea drinking method in the Song Dynasty, and also an important way of leisure and entertainment for the literati and ordinary people. Cha Bai Xi (茶百戏, tea painting art), also known as: Fen Cha (分茶), Shui Dan Qin (水丹青). Firstly, the finely ground tea powder is injected into the tea bowl with boiling water, while stirring with a tea whisk, the tea froth floats up and forms a suspension. Then use the teaspoon and water to draw words and patterns on the…

Traditional Chinese hanfu costumes has been pursued by many young people. The bustling streets and crowded scenic spots are often decorated with people’s figure in hanfu. Some enthusiasts even actively hold activities for traditional cultural communication. Chinese ancient clothing culture has a long history, from the top officials to the common people, there are corresponding clothing requirements according to different social status in ancient China.   I. Classification of Traditional Chinese Hanfu Clothing Ancient Chinese women's hanfu clothing can be divided into three parts: Shou Fu (首服, headwear), Ti Fu (体服, main clothing), and Zu Fu (足服, footwear). Although the styles are varied, they can be generally divided into upper and lower garments or up-and-down-attached style. Before the Western Zhou Dynasty, clothing was mainly upper and lower garments. The upper garment was called "Yi (衣)", and the lower garment was called "Chang (裳)". During the Spring and Autumn and Warring States period, people combined the upper garment and lower garment into one piece of clothing, which was called "Shen Yi (深衣)". "Shenyi" has been the representative clothing of the Spring and Autumn and Warring States period. Many documents have recorded its characteristics. The annotation in The Book of Rites - Shenyi…

Hanfu & Traditional Chinese Dress for Kids Hanfu is becoming more and more popular among young people, and traditional clothing has also attracted more attention. And children have always been cute pronouns, but what kind of surprises will there be for children to wear traditional Chinese clothes. This issue brings traditional Chinese dress for kids, so that they can also wear Chinese clothes and feel the power of traditional culture together. What kind of clothes did children wear in ancient China? It is generally believed that children in the history of China do not have their own clothes, and children have been wearing a reduced version of adult clothes, but in fact, but it's not all that. Ancient Chinese Dress for Kids Qiangbao (襁褓, swaddling) The clothing of newborn babies is more common: Qiangbao. Qiangbao was widely used in ancient China from the court down to the people. According to the literature, Qiangbao as an ancient child care product has been widely used as early as the Shang and Zhou dynasties. The term "Qiangbao" was later used to refer to babies under the age of one year. Doudu (兜肚) Doudu, with naked back when wearing, has the function of heat…

  Tang Dynasty - Fei Qian Fei Qian (飞钱, flying cash) in the Tang Dynasty, the earliest prototype of Chinese paper money. The New Book of Tang – Recordings of foods and goods contains: “商贾至京师，委钱诸道进奏院及诸军诸使富家，以轻装趋四方，合券乃取之，号飞钱。” Fei Qian are also called "Bian Huan (便换, convenient exchange)" and "Bian Qian (便钱, convenient money)". In the middle of the Tang Dynasty, the production of copper coins could not meet the market demand, and there were many restrictions on the flow of copper coins. Besides, the carrying and transportation of large amounts of copper coins were also a problem. So, a new financial method was born. The merchants in the capital sent the money to the Jin Zou Yuan (进奏院, the official statutes of report) which is the office in the capital, and the Jin Zou Yuan issued a ticket for the merchants, with the amount, date, name and other items written on it. And this ticket would be divided into two halves, half sending to the merchant, and another half back to the local. The merchant returned with his half of the ticket to the designated department to exchange for the money, as long as the two halves of the ticket can be…