History & Culture

Daxiushan (大袖衫, big sleeves shirt) were originally men's clothing in the Wei and Jin dynasties, but in the Tang dynasty it referred to women's extra wide big sleeves outfits. The shape of the Daxiushan is straight collar, symmetrical lapels, long sleeves, large cuffs, mostly long clothing body and with splitting and lacing.   Daxiushan in Tang Dynasty During the Tang Dynasty, the society was open and Hu clothing was prevalent. Women were free-spirited and often wore men's or Hu clothing. After the flourishing Tang period, the style of women's clothing became wider and wider, and this feature became more obvious in the middle and late Tang period, with general women's clothing, the sleeve width was often more than four feet. Wide sleeve shirts, long skirts and Pibo were worn as the noble dresses at that time, and usually worn on important occasions, such as court meetings, ceremonial, and marriages. The Daxiushan costume is recorded in Zhou Fang's painting "Court Ladies Adorning Their Hair With Flowers" records the Daxiushan costume. The beauty in the painting wears a long dress with a large-sleeved sarong shirt draped directly. The artist's realistic approach not only portrays the delicate clothing materials of the Tang Dynasty,…

The hanfu culture is no longer just a celebration for a small group of people; an increasing number of ordinary individuals are now sharing their hanfu experiences through creative short videos, integrating hanfu into their daily lives. At the same time, the seemingly unrelated realms of hanfu and fashion have also begun to merge. Hanfu covers in fashion magazines have sparked discussions within the hanfu community, fashion circles, and academic circles alike. Among them, we can find replicas, traditional designs, and fusion styles of hanfu. Dongjin Shangyu has compiled a collection of fashionable magazine spreads featuring hanfu throughout the years for you.   Hanfu in 2013 "FHM" Ten years ago, social networks were not as active as they are today. However, even at that time these three photos broke through the aesthetic norms of the hanfu community and even attracted attention from the media industry. One of these works was used as a cover photo in Issue 112 of "CHINESE HERITAGE" magazine. At that time, Yu Lingyuan was responsible for this photoshoot and said: "The structure of Western suits is similar to Western sculpture - it is very complex in terms of craftsmanship and has a three-dimensional quality. However, what…

As the chill of winter melts away, spring brings with it a sense of rejuvenation and new beginnings. In ancient China, this feeling was often celebrated through the tradition of spring excursions. For many, the new season signaled a time for renewal, rejuvenation, and adventure. While modern-day excursions may look vastly different, there are still traces of ancient springtime traditions that can be observed throughout China. From blossoming gardens to vibrant festivals, join us on a journey through the rich cultural history of spring in ancient China. Spring excursion in the pre-Qin period was romantic and charming. There are many love poems in the "Classic of Poetry", all of which took place during spring excursions. 《郑风·出其东门》：出其东门，有女如云。It means that the people of Zheng like to spring excursions, and when they leave the east gate of the city, they can see many girls on their spring trips, which is a good opportunity for the men of Zheng to meet love. 《郑风·溱洧》：士与女, 殷其盈矣。It means that at the River Zhen and the River Wei, the men and women of Zheng were seen everywhere on their spring excursions. Many men and women fell in love with each other during the spring excursions and became engaged…

Have you ever wondered about the animal motifs on your hanfu and what they stand for? Why are there so many dragons in traditional Chinese art? And what’s up with the monkey statues everywhere? Let's delve into the symbolism of animal motifs. It will only take about 5 minutes of your time, and hopefully, you'll learn something new or revise what you already know! Each hanfu garment is unique. It has various styles and designs, that reflects different historical periods and regional influences. Although the differences are significant, many of them include similar animal embroidery and motifs. Animals that have been deeply intertwined with Chinese culture from its earliest days. Animals in Chinese culture are thought to be symbolic representations of various aspects of life. Understanding the symbolic meaning of an animal will lead to grasping the hidden message of the art. It is not only an important decorative element but also adds meaning, symbolism, and cultural significance to the art, particularly in the context of Hanfu garments.   Most commonly used animal motifs are: Birds: Birds are often associated with the sun and allegorical folk-tales. Each bird carries its own unique symbolism, though most are connected to happiness and…

This article introduces you to the components of the Hanfu upper garment. Use the most common cross-collar shirt for demonstration. original picture This is a Ming Dynasty women's woven gold cross-collar short shirt currently in the Confucius Museum in Shandong. 1. Guard collar (Huling, 护领): added to the outside of the collar parts, shorter than the collar, made of plain cloth, can be used to prevent wear and tear dirty. 2. Lapel (Jin, 襟, jīn): it refers to the edge of the chest part of the clothes, which is the collar edge of the clothes with cross collar and straight collar. 3. Ren (衽, rèn): refers to the chest part of the clothes. The Ren of Hanfu is usually covered to the right (when viewed from the front, the right lapel covers the left lapel), which is called You Ren (右衽, right overlapping). 4. Du (裻, dú): refers to the middle seam of the clothes, due to the narrow width of the cloth in ancient times, will be seamed in the middle of the back, called the Zhong Feng (中缝, middle seam). 5. Lacing: The rope belt used to fix the clothes. 6. Ge (袼, gē): refers to the sleeve…

The program of "Eight Masters of the Tang and Song" unveils the magnificent and dramatic life story of a generation of grandmasters through the mode of "immersive real-life performance + cinematic filming + XR innovative presentation", and explores the moments of the birth of "Tang and Song masterpieces". Immersive real-life performance: The "Cultural Exploration Team" personally experiences the plot, with scenes built on real-life settings. Cinematic filming: Through techniques such as plot rhythm and camera movement, the visuals are crafted to have a cinematic texture, enhancing the artistic and aesthetic qualities of the work. XR innovative presentation: By combining reality and virtuality through computers, it brings the participants a seamless immersion between the virtual world and the real world. Let us follow the "Cultural Exploration Team" of the program "Eight Masters of the Tang and Song" and step into the depths of history to take a look at the experience of Han Yu in the great Tang Dynasty. Han Yu lost his parents at a young age. At the age of 12, his older brother Han He passed away in Shaozhou, and Han Yu returned to Heyang with his sister-in-law to bury his brother. Since then, the burden of supporting…

Music in Ancient Chinese society Music was always a part of chinese culture. It was used in many things such as dance, ceremonies, banquets, rituals, entertainment, and more. Music along with other things was molded into ancient society. Today, many people still play these instruments and dedicate their lives to study them. 1. Pipa 琵琶 The pipa (琵琶) is one of the most played Chinese instruments today. It is commonly described as a four stringed plucked lute shaped like a pear and played vertically. It is named by how it is played; pi (琵) meaning played forward, and pa (琶) meaning played backward. A lute that looked like the pipa was seen in the Indian Kusana scriptures in the first century ad. That is why it is likely that the pipa may have been introduced to China from India or Central Asia. The pipa has more than 2000 years of history in China. Because of its beauty, the pipa is used in many wuxia dramas and hanfu photo shoots. One of the historical four beauties of China is always drawn with a pipa. The pipa became known in China by the second century ad. Pipa is usually made of rosewood…

In the process of evolution, there are dozens or even hundreds of styles of Chinese clothes. This article mainly introduces the most classical styles of Chinese Hanfu clothes. Women's clothing Suit Ruqun(襦裙) Ruqun is a kind of hanfu, also call: Shanqun (衫裙), short clothes worn on the upper body, call "Ru", and the dress of the lower body, call "Qun", together call "Ruqun". It is a typical "Shangyi Xiachang(top clothes and underdress) " form. Ruqun has an obvious feature: short top and long dress. The Ruqun appeared in the Warring States Period, Ruqun was worn by ordinary people(female) until the end of the Ming and Qing Dynasties. Jiaoling Ruqun/ Shanqun(交领襦裙/衫裙) Jiaoling Ruqun is a kind of Ruqun, the main feature is: the top collar is cross. It is quite common in the Song Dynasty. Wearing method: First: Wear top clothes, Align the collar of the top clothes; Tie a knot in right Jin(襟, the chest part of the top); Tie a knot in left Jin. Second: tie up the dress, Put the dress in front of you, wrap the skirt behind you; Two sides of the dress overlap behind; Folding outwards the pressing on the inner layer of dress; Adjust…

So maybe you’ve been interested in hanfu for a while, and you’ve vaguely started to pick out the differences between Ming Dynasty aoqun and Tang Dynasty heziqun, but you still have no clue what the order of the time periods are or even what they were characterized by. Upon a quick sift through Wikipedia, there’s just wayyyyy too much information to process, and you don’t even know what information to look for—what matters to your understanding of hanfu culture. Fear not! Here’s a compendium of what you need to know about the historical context of hanfu. The Structure of Ancient Chinese History There’s a phenomenon in Chinese history that we call the Dynastic Cycle. Ancient China was ruled over by many different time periods called Dynasties, each with a family of rulers, and most of these follow the same general scheme: the central ruling power is established, the population goes up and the country flourishes, corruption starts affecting the political scheme, people revolt, and the country either dissolves into several warring states or gets conquered by another group of people. Then one state emerges victorious over the other ones or the invaders, the next dynasty is established, and the cycle…

In the beginning, it was just a leaf, encountered by humans as a remedy for detoxification. Little did they know, millennia ago, this leaf would transform into a beloved beverage through the hands of the Chinese. Tea Rituals Enter the poetic realm of Tang Dynasty poets, where tea transcended its medicinal roots to become the elixir of life for nomadic tribes and a muse for scholars. Poems like Su Dongpo's famous verse "A playful poem, don't laugh, fine teas are as beautiful as fair ladies" elevated tea to a realm beyond mere refreshment. Su Dongpo, a polymath known for his mastery of the arts, immersed himself deeply in the art of tea. Beyond his renowned verses on food and wine, Dongpo's affinity for tea was a lesser-discussed facet of his life. For him, tea was not just a drink but a ritual—a blend of leaf, water, and vessel, each meticulously chosen. His poems reflect this intimacy with tea: "Snowy foam and milky swirls in the noon teacup, fragrant herbs steeped in spring dishes. The best of life's flavors are pure joy." His appreciation for freshly brewed tea after a satisfying nap showcases his nuanced approach to life's pleasures, where tea…

Cheongsam, as one of the traditional Chinese dresses, can be seen as one of the tags of oriental women. It is like an ink-scented rice paper, which writes the history of Chinese dress, and like an inscription of the ancient time, even the folds of which contain the scent of ancient culture. It is not only a garment, but also a carrier of traditional Chinese culture. As one of the key elements of the composition of cheongsam, the collar shape has a very important influence on the style of cheongsam. Traditional cheongsam collar, often with a stand collar design, formed an elegant effect, with good effect in highlighting the lines of the female neck and body. The details of the cheongsam collar, show the workmanship, also the soul of the cheongsam. The right collar type can fit perfectly with the body, but also with the cheongsam as a whole, to the overall style of cheongsam into more exquisite aesthetic temperament, from the fundamental focus on temperament.   The origin of the cheongsam collar The relationship between modern cheongsam and Qing dynasty Manchu robe is still controversial, but it is undeniable that there is an inextricable relationship between cheongsam and Qi…

During the Ming dynasty, the categories and styles of gold and silver ornaments had greater innovation and development based on the Song and Yuan dynasties, showing different visual aesthetic experiences and artistic styles. Among the various types of gold and silver in the Ming dynasty ornaments, "San Sher (三事儿, sān shèr, three things)" is a unique example. Unlike other ornaments, the "San Sher" are daily life tools, used for repairing and cleaning, and their main components include hooks, chains, connectors, pendants, etc. Some of them also have storage tubes, and the pendant objects are usually toothpicks, ear picks, and tweezers, which can be worn by both men and women. The "San Sher" is a common name in the Ming Dynasty, but in fact, the number of pendants can be increased or decreased, and the types are also different. The Ming Dynasty gold and silver "San Sher" are exquisite and unique, reflecting the high design aesthetic appeal, and also have a rich cultural connotation.   Design aesthetics of Ming dynasty Ornaments - San Sher   01 Small and applicable: the form of pendant design The gold and silver "San Sher" of the Ming Dynasty pursued unity in form, and the pendant…

Hey everyone, sorry for the hiatus! I’m back now with a new series of articles—Hanfu Unearthed, a series examining the more technical, historical origins of hanfu. This series of articles is going to focus on the archaeological side of hanfu research: the relics that we’ve uncovered from various dig sites and tombs. The way that hanfu is defined by most is that its shape and construction is designed off of these relics, so let’s take a look at the real historical references that we have. A quick disclaimer—this series of articles is a result of my own research. I’m not a trained historian or archaeologist, I’m an inexperienced student with an interest in hanfu and chinese history. I don’t have a works cited page for these (though I can point you towards some of the resources I used off the top of my head if you really want them), and I didn’t spend a long time verifying my sources beyond checking with multiple sources to make sure the information was consistent, because frankly I don’t have the time to do that. All articles will come with this disclaimer, so please, please understand that I’m doing my best with what I…

The Han Dynasty (206 BCE - 220 CE) is widely recognized as a golden age in Chinese history, marked by significant advances in science, technology, and arts. Among the many cultural treasures of this era, one item that stands out is the plain gauze robe. Despite its simple appearance, this garment played a crucial role in shaping the fashion and social etiquette of the Han Dynasty. In this article, we'll take a closer look at three points to understand anew this exquisite plain gauze dress. Plain gauze robe from the tomb of the Marquis of Dai at Mawangdui Over two thousand years ago, in the Western Han dynasty, the Chancellor of Changsha, Li Cang, and his wife stood on equal footing with one another. Mrs. Xinzhui, his wife, possessed remarkable beauty and wore light makeup that truly complemented her looks. The undyed raw silk was weaved into plain gauze without any lining, which paired perfectly with Xin Zhui's appearance. As moved, the sleeve would release a faint yet enchanting fragrance.   The Fashionable Style of Han Dynasty's Women "Thin as cicada wings, light as smoke," the plain gauze robe unearthed from Mawangdui Han tomb number one in Changsha, Hunan province,…

Cheongsams or Modern Qipao are a kind of figure-flattering Chinese dress perfect for showcasing a lady’s features gracefully. It is no wonder they’re becoming ever more prevalent to wear, particularly for special occasions like your wedding. But the modern qipao can be worn anytime for any event. Although there are nearly too many choices when shopping for the Western wedding outfit, purchasing Chinese wedding clothing or Modern Qipao (cheongsam) can be a maddening experience if you don’t know what to look for in a Modern Qipao dress. How will you get the best Cheongsams or Modern Qipao if you don’t know them well? Fortunately, we have reviewed a complete list of 5 vital things to check before you buy a cheongsam or modern qipao dress in this article below. It will certainly help you to get the best qipao China dress from anywhere in the world!   What Is a Modern Qipao or Cheongsam Chinese Dress? As a type of Chinese dress, qipao is at all times a classic option for women. Cheongsams or qipao originated almost a century ago in Shanghai in China as a contemporary take on the Chinese Manchu dress, and then it remained among the most…

When we introduced the Xiapei during the Song and Ming dynasties, we mentioned that the Xiapei hangs flat in front of the chest. The creation of Hanfu ornament: "Peizhui (帔坠)" is to ensure that the Xiapei (霞帔) is flattened in front of women's chest and belly when they move, maintaining a dignified image. Nowadays, you can often see girls who like Ming-style Hanfu hanging their Peizhui pendant around their neck for decoration. As an important part of Song and Ming women's costumes, the historical Peizhui pendant is integrated with the Xiapei, which serves the function of beautifying decoration and distinguishing social hierarchy. In the excavated tombs of Song, Yuan, and Ming dynasties, the silk fabric of Xiapei is not easy to be preserved, but the gold, silver, and jade quality of Peizhui has been preserved. Today, let's learn more about Peizhui pendant, a precious Hanfu ornament! Peizhui is usually made of two patterned curved pieces that are fastened together and attached to the end of the Xiapei in front of the body. The patterns are mostly hollow, often mistaken for scented sachet when unearthed earlier. The Peizhui unearthed in Song, Yuan, and Ming tombs are mainly made of gold, silver,…

The 2024 "Silk Road Week" grandly opened at the China National Silk Museum! The highlight of this event is the grand exhibition "The Silk Road's Chang'an," officially launched with over 210 artifacts on display, including more than 50 first-class relics. The exhibition is divided into five sections, showcasing a vibrant, diverse, open, and integrated Chang'an through aspects such as politics, economy, culture, lifestyle, and its long-standing connections with Zhejiang. Chang'an, the ancient name for Xi'an, located in the central Guanzhong Plain, is one of the cradles of Chinese civilization. Historically, over ten dynasties, including the Western Han, Xin, Eastern Han, Western Jin, Former Zhao, Former Qin, Later Qin, Western Wei, Northern Zhou, Sui, and Tang, established their capitals here over a span of more than a thousand years. It is the city with the longest history, most dynasties, greatest influence, and richest heritage in Chinese history. During the Han and Tang dynasties, Chang'an was the starting point of the ancient Silk Road, a crucial node connecting the Eurasian continent. With its thriving economy, splendid culture, and inclusive nature, it became an undeniable global metropolis and a center of cultural exchange between China and the world. This year marks the 10th…

The Colors of the Four Seasons | Chinese Dressing Aesthetics Color, is an important factor that constitutes the beauty of the art of dress. The ancients naturally did not ignore it. Classical Chinese dress colors originated from ancient times, as early as 18,000 years ago when the Beijing Cavemanused stone powder red to dye jewelry. For a long time, Chinese colors learned from the bright nature of birds' feathers, flowers, and so on, imitated the dyeing, and gradually became a system of its own, following the rules to use, expressing the transformation of seasons. Rites of Zhou has recorded: "For painting, the five colors are mixed. The symbol of the east is called cyan, the symbol of the south is called red, the symbol of the west is called white, the symbol of the north is called black, the symbol of the sky is called Xuan (dark black), and the symbol of the earth is called yellow." The center is also yellow. The colors of the Wuxing (五行, Five Elements) are yellow (earth, 土), white (metal, 金), cyan (wood, 木), red (fire, 火), black (water, 水), the colors of the four seasons are spring green, summer red, autumn white, winter…

Taoist clothing, which refers to the costume worn by Taoists, belongs to the Han traditional dress system. It is also known as "Fa Fu (法服)", "Taoist uniform", "Taoist dress", etc. The Taoist clothing is the traditional costume of the Chinese nation, and the social costume has changed with the development of the times, but within the Taoist religion is largely unchanged. Daoism attaches great importance to its own traditions and has always been steadfast in adhering to all the beliefs and systems that have been formed. Its dress is just that. Early Taoist clothing, which was not strictly regulated, began to form systems after Lu Xiujing (陆修静) in the Southern Dynasty. Taoism is quite cautious about its dress, both in the Quanzhen (全真派) and the Zhengyi (正一派) Taoism. By the end of the North-South Dynasty, a complete dress system was basically formed. That is to say, according to the years of Taoist initiation and the depth of Taoism, the Taoist is divided into several levels, and specific provisions are made for each level of Taoist clothing, crown, and boots, the fabrics to be used, the colors to be taken, the style to be taken, etc. Each rank of Taoist must…

In the Book of Songs, it is said, "The peach blossoms are in full bloom, their colors are bright and vivid like fire. This girl is getting married and will make her husband's family happy and harmonious. (桃之夭夭，灼灼其华。之子于归，宜其室家。)" With a few words, it outlines a prosperous scene of joyfulness and marriage of men and women. Chinese marriage rituals were formed during the Xia and Shang dynasties, and because the ancient ritual of marrying a wife was often held at dusk, it was known as the "Hun Li (昏礼)". Since ancient times, people have attached great importance to weddings, and on this day people dress up to celebrate this important event in their lives and gather many good wishes on their wedding clothes. In recent years, more and more people are choosing traditional Chinese wedding dresses for their weddings, and the beauty of the Feng Guan (凤冠, phoenix crown) and Xia Pei (霞帔) has stunned countless people. Chinese traditional wedding dresses are not only beautiful, but also have the weight and uniqueness of the ancient oriental culture, let's follow ArtMoment to explore the romance that has lasted for thousands of years and belongs to the Chinese people.   Tang Dynasty: warmth…

The 馬王堆漢墓/马王堆汉墓/ma3 wang2 dui1/Mawangdui Han tomb is one of the most famous Han dynasty archaeological sites in China. Located in Mawangdui, Changsha, this elaborate tomb was found in 1968 and excavated in 1972 to reveal the remains of an incredibly well-preserved noblewoman that we now know was the wife to the Marquis of Dai in the Han Dynasty Kingdom of Changsha, Li Dai. A multilayered burial site containing furniture, food, art, accessories, and other belongings, the tomb contained her personal seal, which was found with the name 辛追/辛追/xin1 zhui1/Xin Zhui engraved in it; thus we know her as 辛追夫人/新追夫人/xin1 zhui1 fu1 ren2/Lady Xinzhui.  wax reconstruction of what Lady Xinzhui would've looked like in her youth (A quick disclaimer—this series of articles is a result of my own research. I’m not a trained historian or archaeologist, I’m an inexperienced student with an interest in hanfu and chinese history. I don’t have a works cited page for these (though I can point you towards some of the resources I used off the top of my head if you really want them), and I didn’t spend a long time verifying my sources beyond checking with multiple sources to make sure the information was…

Unlike the Han, Tang, Song, and Ming dynasties, the Wei, Jin, Northern and Southern dynasties, were the most frequent period of regime change in Chinese history, mainly divided into the Three Kingdoms: Cao Wei (曹魏), Shu Han (蜀汉) and Dong Wu (东吴); Western Jin (西晋); Eastern Jin (东晋); the Northern and Southern Dynasties periods (南北朝时期). The development of Chinese culture during this period was particularly affected by the long period of feudalism and continuous wars. As a result of the interplay of many new cultural factors, the Northern and Southern Dynasties became a tumultuous but poetic era, with the amorous style of a flamboyant gentleman and the leisurely thoughts of a gentle girl. In a simple and bright move under the skirt, there is a unique "Northern and Southern Dynasties" hanfu flavor, and the poetry of the oriental landscape is linked in the softness and simplicity. In this article, let's take a closer look at the unique aesthetic of this era and teach you how easy it will be to match the "Northern and Southern Dynasties Hanfu" with a classical flavor.   The style trend of hanfu in the "Northern and Southern Dynasties" During the Northern and Southern Dynasties, hanfu…

With the rise of ancient Chinese costume "Hanfu culture" among young people, the China-chic has become an unstoppable trend. The September issue of Harper's BAZAAR e-magazine features a stylish restoration of hanfu, and a closer look at these "trendy elements" from a thousand years ago that are still stunning today.   HAN DYNASTY The restored hanfu shot by Harper's BAZAAR During the Han Dynasty, large-sleeved clothes were popular, called "Zhu Yu (诸于)". The characteristic of large-sleeved clothes is the use of the slanting cutting method, which makes the clothes look wide at the top and narrow at the bottom. This set of hanfu designs in "Harper's BAZAAR" uses this typical slanting cutting method, which makes the model look taller and slimmer, so it can be said to be a "slimming secret". During the Han Dynasty, common women wore Ru upper and Qun underneath, which shows that women in the Han Dynasty wore a skirt and a dress as their daily wear. Han Dynasty costumes in the drama The Han Dynasty was a feudal period with a strict hierarchy, which was also reflected in women's clothing, which could be basically divided into two different dress systems for nobles and commoners. Hairstyle…

Giving gifts is a great way to show appreciation, gratitude, or love, but there are a few things that shouldn’t be given as gifts in chinese culture. Some are due to double meanings, others due to symbolism, but just to make sure you don’t slip up and accidentally give your friend a taboo gift, pay attention to these key gift taboos! Giving gifts is a great way to show appreciation, gratitude, or love, but there are a few things that shouldn’t be given as gifts in chinese culture. Some are due to double meanings, others due to symbolism, but just to make sure you don’t slip up and accidentally give your friend a taboo gift, pay attention to these key gift taboos!   1. Fans () and Umbrellas () Fans, or shàn, and umbrellas, or sǎn, should not be given as gifts—they seem like very practical gifts, but their pronunciation is very similar to the word sǎn/sàn () (can be pronounced both ways depending on place in the sentence), meaning to scatter or separate. Giving a fan or umbrella to someone can be representative of wanting to break up a good relationship or drive someone away from you, so giving…