Recently, the female characters in the historical drama “The Double” have sparked much discussion with their pearl makeup. Not only do their hair accessories feature pearls, but their faces are adorned with numerous pearls, too, placed on their foreheads, cheeks, and corners of their mouths. Attentive viewers have counted up to 25 pearls on one face, with the least adorned having 8 pearls. This leads to the question: why do they put pearls on their faces?
The Trend of Pearl Makeup
The practice of applying pearls on the face dates back to the Song Dynasty and was quite popular at that time. Ancient women used rouge and other pigments to decorate their faces or created various patterns with materials like gold, jade, pearls, and colored paper, which they adhered to their cheeks. This practice was known as “Mian Ye (面靥),” with pearl makeup specifically called “Zhenzhu Mianye.”
Pearl makeup was actually a form of the ornate makeup from the Tang Dynasty, which became fashionable in the Song Dynasty. This trend persisted partly because the Song Dynasty carried on the traditions of the Tang and Five Dynasties periods, where facial decorations were highly regarded. Additionally, influenced by Zhu Xi's Neo-Confucianism, which advocated for modesty and elegance, pearl makeup became popular.
Even the palace ladies were not exempt from this trend. In the Song Dynasty court, “Hua Dian” were essential for royal concubines, and there were strict regulations on their design, transforming them into “Zhu Dian” (pearl ornaments). Portraits of Song Dynasty empresses, depict them with these pearl decorations, showcasing their beauty.
Unlike painted Huadian, pearls had to be securely adhered to the face, a challenge in ancient times without modern adhesives. According to Song Dynasty records, a type of glue called “He Jiao (呵胶),” derived from fish bladders, was used. This glue, produced in the northern regions, was easy to melt and highly adhesive, suitable even for attaching arrow feathers, let alone small pearls.
Applying “He Jiao” was simple; warming it with breath would melt the glue. If not blowing, one could moisten it with a little saliva before gently sticking it to the forehead or other areas. This method is vividly described in Zhao Guangyuan's poem “Yong Shou,” highlighting its convenience. Removing the pearls was equally easy; a hot water compress would suffice, making it a natural and skin-friendly cosmetic option.
The primary reason for applying pearls was to enhance beauty. The lustrous, gentle sheen of pearls brightened the complexion and improved facial proportions. Pearls placed on the forehead were not limited to a single piece but often formed floral or geometric patterns, beautifying the forehead and visually shortening the upper face. Pearls on the cheeks could narrow the face, much like modern contouring techniques, creating a slimming effect.
Moreover, pearls could conceal facial imperfections. A Song Dynasty poem mentions how “Hua Dian” could hide flaws. Although it doesn't specify pearls, as a type of “Hua Dian,” pearls likely served the same purpose. Importantly, pearls were a symbol of wealth and status in that era, only accessible to the upper-class nobility. Ordinary women used flowers and plants for adornment, while pearls added not only beauty but also a mark of high social standing.
How to Apply Pearl Makeup
Historical portraits of Song Dynasty empresses show us the proper way to apply pearl makeup, including where to place the pearls and how many to use, with strict guidelines. The standard application involves placing pearls on the forehead, the sides of the mouth, and the temples, ensuring symmetry. Most Song Dynasty empresses adhered to this method.
For instance, in the portrait of Empress Cao from the reign of Emperor Renzong, she wears a ceremonial gown and a crown adorned with pearls and jade. A pearl ornament is placed above her eyebrows, mounted on a jade base. Additionally, on both sides of her mouth, level with her lips, she has smaller pearl ornaments matching those on her forehead.
During the Zhenghe era of Emperor Huizong, regulations specified the number of flower and pearl ornaments for noblewomen's crowns: nine flower ornaments with an equal number of pearl decorations for first-rank, eight for second-rank, six for third-rank, and five for fifth-rank.
The historical drama “Palace of Devotion,” set in the Song Dynasty, accurately depicts this pearl makeup style. Empress Liu E has a large pearl on her forehead, nine smaller pearls along each temple, and one pearl at each corner of her mouth, complemented by pearl earrings. Other characters in the drama, like Empress Cao, Consort Zhang, and Princess Heir, follow similar patterns, with slight variations in the number of pearls.
Some dramas set in fictional dynasties also use pearl makeup, albeit with creative liberties. In “The Double,” set in the fictional “Da Yan” dynasty, pearl placement is less strict, with pearls placed further forward from the temples. In “My Journey to You,” the protagonist Yun Wei Shan places a few small pearls around her eyes. In “The Rise of Ning,” the heroine Luo Yining applies two pearls above and below her forehead.
For a contemporary look, a simpler pearl application is more versatile. Actress Ni Ni, for instance, wore pearl makeup for a magazine cover, with single pearls scattered on her eyebrows, eyes, cheeks, and chin. Concentrating pearls around the eyes is also popular and easier to wear, as seen on Wu Xuanyi, Lin Yun, and Zhou Ye, who have all sported pearl accents around their eyes.
By following these guidelines or adapting them creatively, one can achieve a timeless and elegant look with pearl makeup.