The half-arm robe dimensions used in this example are: length 50, bust 85, and sleeve length 15.
1. First, prepare the materials, including a ruler, chalk, scissors, materials for the edges, and the main fabric.
2. Then fold the fabric flat and symmetrically. When laying out the fabric, pay attention to aligning it with the grain of the material because the stretchability of the fabric differs in the horizontal and vertical directions, which can affect the final fit of the garment.
3. Next, determine the center line of the garment. For cross-collar garments, the fit is adjusted by ties, so the center line should be offset from the edge. The calculation formula is (1/4 bust – 10~12).
4. Then determine the width of the bust line, which is offset from the center line by (1/4 bust + 2cm + 1cm). The height of the bust line varies depending on the individual, and it differs between men and women. In this example, the bust line height is 20. Mark this point. Next, determine the size of the neckline. Based on personal experience, the neckline width is between 6cm and 9cm, and it may vary depending on the size and method of the collar. The most critical point is the position below the collar, which directly affects the fit of the collar. I believe the optimal distance below the shoulder line is 35~40cm. Connect these two points, offset 1cm from the bust line point, and draw an arc (since the human body is elliptical, this helps achieve a better fit).
5. Next, we move to the hem of the garment. Generally, the measurements below the waist gradually increase, with the hip circumference being slightly larger than the bust (this varies by individual). Therefore, the hem should be slightly larger. Then determine the length of the sleeves. Since the upper arm needs to move frequently, the sleeve opening at the shoulder should not be less than 20cm. Two points to note: first, there should be a slight curve under the armpit to make the fit more natural. Second, raise the hem slightly by about 1cm and cut it into a small curve, which will make it more fitted.
6. The positioning for cutting the garment is almost complete. Now, let's start cutting. The advantage of symmetrical cutting is that it can be done with just a few cuts. First, cut the outer contour along the marked lines, then cut the back neckline opening (1.5 to 2cm below the shoulder line, don't cut too deep, and make sure the curve is smooth as it directly affects how well the collar fits the neck). Next, cut the folded fabric from the middle, cut the front piece's curve, unfold the fabric, and cut the second and third layers along the center line. Finally, align the left and right pieces of the fabric and cut out the collar. It's quite easy, isn't it?
7. With the main part of the garment cut, we can start cutting the edges. Use a flexible tape measure to measure the length needed for the collar edge along the curve of the neckline, plus the seam allowance (usually 1cm on each end). Cut out the edge and the interfacing. Don't underestimate this thin layer of cotton paper; it ensures that the collar is stiff and fits well rather than being wrinkled. Iron the interfacing onto the back of the edge using high heat on the ironing board, then press the edge to shape it. A useful tip is to press the seams on both sides of the edge on the ironing board before sewing, about one finger-width wide.
8. Now we start sewing the garment. Place the cut pieces with the right sides together, sew the back pieces together first, then start sewing from the cuffs, carefully following the curve when you reach the armpit. Don't rush, and remember to clip the seams after sewing to prevent stiffness. However, don't sew all the way to the end; leave more than 10cm unsewn.
9. After completing this step, the next step is to finish the cuffs and edges. Fold the edges inward twice, enclosing the raw edges, and sew a line to hem them. Pay attention to maintaining a consistent speed and distance, which requires some skill and practice.
10. First, sew four small ties, leaving one side open. Turn them inside out after sewing, and set them aside for later use. Then, align the pressed edge with the outer edge of the main fabric and sew a line to secure it. Pin a few points inside the edge to keep it in place, which is crucial for beginners to sew a straight line without distortion. This is the key technique for attaching the collar properly. After securing the position, trim the seam allowance to 1cm at the closure.
11. Next, fold the edge over and insert the prepared ties in the middle, then sew a line. Do this at both ends of the edge. Turn it over, and start sewing the main fabric edge into the edge, following the pre-pressed lines. Sew in small sections, carefully adjusting the tension and alignment of the fabric. Finally, mark the positions of the ties with chalk and start the final step of attaching the ties. Sew a line in the opposite direction of the ties, then fold them over and sew another line. This ensures they are securely attached.
