hanfu making

This section contains improved Hanfu (改良汉服). Please read the introduction of the topic and how to use this guide in advance. Introduction Wearing hanfu is not just for the sake of retro and vintage, but also to show classical beauty and promote the traditional culture of the nation. However, many people have misconceptions about hanfu, believing that the process of wearing hanfu is tedious and that it is not convenient to move around after wearing it. In fact, hanfu is not necessarily a wide robe with big sleeves. The hanfu system itself contains short and slim tops, as well as short-sleeved and narrow-sleeved types of clothing. The hanfu tops can be matched with modern skirts and pants with a little improvement of the form, as long as the shape and color match. The "improvement" referred to here is not to develop to Western-style three-dimensional cutting, but to make certain modifications to the hanfu pattern, such as reducing the sleeve length and cuff width, and making slight modifications to the shape to make it more suitable for matching with modern clothing, combining tradition with fashion, while maintaining the basic shape and flat cutting method of hanfu. It is hoped that this improved…

Diy crafting is a lot of fun, and not only can you be fully engaged in the process, but it's also very rewarding to finish a piece with your own hands. The same goes for making your own Hanfu, which is why we've launched this series, will continue to update the Hanfu sewing pattern and process of making different styles of Hanfu for you in the future.   Introduction to Pifeng Hanfu Pifeng(披风, cape) is a form of Chinese Hanfu clothing, mostly straight-necked, Duijin (对襟), with two long sleeves, with slits under both armpits, can be worn both indoors and outdoors. From many portraits as well as notes on the data, Pifeng used to be a popular clothing style of the Ming Dynasty.   Sewing Pattern Explained - Making Cuts Tutorial The Pifeng shape is not complicated, and those who like to make Hanfu or DIY Hanfu dress can try to make it if have the right fabric. Overall: A/B/C/D equal width, 50~60cm Cuff width 30-60cm (depending on sleeve size) Width of sleeve heel 30~40cm The collar is opened to the level of the armpit, and the width of the collar opening is twice as wide as the width of…

This section contains Beizi (褙子), which can be divided into: Xie Duijin Beizi(斜对襟褙子), Zhi Duijin Beizi (直对襟褙子). Size range:  155/80A to 175/96A. Please read the introduction of the topic and how to use this guide in advance.   Introduction Beizi is a kind of top with a pair of lapels, which relies on two ties in front of the chest to hold it in place, so it must be worn over other clothes, and is knee-length with slits on both sides. In the Ming Dynasty, it was also called "Pifeng". Beizi can be worn by both men and women, with men mostly using them as Bianfu (便服) and women using them as Lifu (礼服, formal dresses). There are two types of Beizi painted in this section: Xie Duijin (diagonal lapels) Beizi and Zhi Duijin (straight lapels) Beizi, mainly women's wide-sleeved Beizi, with a Ma Mian Qun or pleated skirt underneath. In addition, for the Zhi Duijin Beizi, you can make men's Beizi by enlarging the size and making slight alterations, or you can make women's narrow-sleeved Beizi by reducing the size of the sleeves.   Size chart   Xie Duijin Beizi(斜对襟褙子)    Zhi Duijin Beizi (直对襟褙子)   More Hanfu Style…

This section contains Banbi (半臂). Size range: Jiao Ling Banbi  (155/80A to 185/104A), Zhi Dui Jin Banbi and Xie Dui Jin Banbi (155/64A to 175/96A). Please read the introduction of the topic and how to use this guide in advance. Introduction Banbi (半臂), also known as "half-sleeve", is a short tunic developed from the upper Ru (襦) since the Wei and Jin Dynasties, and can be roughly divided into two collar types: Jiao Ling (交领, cross-collar) and Dui Jin (对襟, lapel). Compared with long-sleeved tops, the difference is that the sleeve length can reach the elbow. In the Tang Dynasty, the Banbi was already a popular garment worn by both men and women. In the long years, its wearing method is also basically limited to the set of other long-sleeved clothes, because in formal occasions, the ancient people will never wear Banbi alone and show the arm. But with modern aesthetics, today's Jiao Ling Banbi (交领半臂) can be worn alone in summer, which is somewhat similar to the short-sleeved T-shirts worn by modern people, and because of its shorter sleeve length, it does not hurt to pair it with a modern skirt, and men can also wear a Banbi with…

This section includes Zhongyi (中衣) and Zhongku (中裤). Size range: Zhongyi (155/80A to 185/104A), Zhongku (155/64A to 185/88A) Please read the introduction of the topic and how to use this guide in advance.   Introduction Zhongyi, also known as Liyi, is worn outside of underwear and within outerwear (the Chinese meaning of 中 is equivalent to the middle), and its role is similar to that of a shirt in modern clothing, which can be used to match and complement the role of Zhongyi. Zhongyi cannot be worn outside, and in addition to playing the role of a shirt, it can also be used as home wear and pajamas. The Zhongyi illustrated in this section is the common cross-collar arrow-sleeved Zhongyi, while the broad Zhongyi also includes Zhongdan (中单), Zhongku (中裤, pants), and Zhognqun (中裙, skirts). Zhongyi common fabric types are cotton, cotton linen, chiffon, monochrome satin, etc. In addition to the most commonly used white fabric, girls can also choose colored fabrics when they match the Ruqun, the colors of which are bright green, soft yellow, peach, purple and gray, etc. Men wearing Pan collar robe with Zhongyi can also choose red. Because Zhongyi's body and collar than the outer clothing…

Introduction Yunjian (云肩), is considered to be one of hanfu's accessories. It is often matched with Ming Dynasty clothing, such as long tops (长袄) and folded skirts, known as mǎ miàn qún (马面裙). Those interested in hanfus might be interested in making their own, including yunjian. But, when it comes to making yunjian, there have been little videos that give the full process of making it from scratch. There are, however, kits that can be bought and you just have to attach the pieces. Or, you can just buy the finished product from stores that sell it to match your hanfu set. The reason that there haven’t been many tutorials for yunjian making could be because of the complicated embroidery techniques that are used. Despite yunjian being something small, the intricate designs can require long hours just on sewing itself. If you have a sewing machine, it’ll fasten your pace on the designs, making it much easier for you to do the DIY process. I’ve looked through videos and articles showing steps of yunjian making and I’ll group them here for anyone interested. The steps may be rough, but you’ll get the overall idea of what’s occurring to get the…

In the context of the Chinese language, "Ling Luo Chou Duan" usually refers to various exquisite silk fabrics. However, there are many types of ancient Chinese fabrics, and "Ling Luo Chou Duan" cannot cover them all. This article will briefly introduce how to identify various Chinese ancient hanfu fabrics such as "yarn, silk, brocade, velvet", and so on. However, it should be noted that the names of each textile organization in different dynasties are not exactly the same. They have also developed over time, so this is just a general explanation to give everyone a simple impression.   Structure of Ancient Chinese Fabrics The common structures in Chinese fabrics are needed to determine the relationship between each yarn, which is the pattern of overlapping warp and weft yarns in the fabric. There are five common types of structures, which are also known as San Yuan structures. Ping Wen Structure Ping Wen structure (plain weave) is woven with the warp and weft threads alternating over and under each other. Plain weave fabrics are durable and resistant to wear, but have less elasticity and a lower sheen. If you touch it, you will find that the feel is hard, but relatively thin.…

Hey everyone, long time no see! It's been a while and I promise I'm still working on the Song Dynasty sections of Hanfu Unearthed—in the meantime, enjoy this not-so-short cheat sheet to all of the most commonly used fibers and weaves in hanfu, whether historically or in the industry today. Fibers Fibers are the material from which threads are spun to be made into fabric. These include synthetic fibers made in labs or factories by humans, as well as animal fibers that are grown as fur or silk by animals, or plant-based fibers that we harvest from various fibrous plants. Tencel Rising in popularity, especially last summer, tencel is a kind of semi-synthetic fiber made from cellulose, also called lyocell, originally made to imitate silk. Made by dissolving cellulose into pulp and using dry jet-et spinning to reconstitute the fibers, it’s a clean process that creates a kind of synthetic fiber using natural materials: easier to dye than cotton, more breathable than polyester, moisture-wicking, and softer than linen. The one downside of tencel is that it’s easily wrinkled, but its smooth draping quality and breathability make it a first choice for hanfu manufacturers today. Other rayons are also used, but…

This section contains Shuhe (裋褐). Size range: 165/88A to 185/104A). Please read the introduction of the topic and how to use this guide in advance. Introduction Shuhe (裋褐), also known as "Duan Da (短打)", originally meant a coarse cloth upper garment woven with coarse hemp or animal hair, was a simple cross-collar upper garment worn by commoners in ancient China, usually with looser pants underneath, mostly used for casual wear or work clothes. The basic features of the Shuhe are Jiao Ling You Ren (交领右衽, cross collar and wrapping the right side before the left), the shortest sleeve length over the wrist, the longest slightly beyond the fingertips, mostly straight sleeves or arrow sleeves, narrower cuffs, the length of the garment to below the waist, the longest above the knee, and the two sides need to be divided into slits. Shuhe can not simply be equated with the cloth worn by the poor, although this garment can not do the formal occasions worn by the dress, but its use is very wide, and the use of Shuhe is determined by its characteristics, because wearing Shuhe more convenient for action, so it has become a daily work, farming, long-distance travel necessary…

A brief history of waist fan (yaoshan) and steps to DIY one for anyone interested. Vocab Tuan Shan: moon-shaped fan, 团扇, tuánshàn; Zhe Shan: folding fan, 折扇, zhéshàn; Yao Shan: waist fan, 腰扇, yāo shàn; Ping Feng: screen, 屏风, píngfēng.   Introduction When it comes to hanfu, one accessory that it is paired with is a fan. Well-known types of fans are moon-shaped fan and folding fan. But there is another type of fan known as Yao Shan, which translates as "waist fan." The reason why it is called a waist fan is that it can easily be secured at the waist when not used. When the fan is needed, you can just slip it out of the belt and open it up by twisting. It's unlike others where you will either have to constantly hold or unable to close it to take up less space. Waist fans contain characteristics from both moon-shaped fans and folding fans. It took the common round surface of a moon-shaped fan and the ability to close and open when needed from a folding fan. But the round shape is just a common shape everyone goes by. Moon-shaped fans have expanded from simply using a circle…

Maybe you often have the idea of making your own Hanfu, in addition to buying a new Hanfu. In this article, we will briefly introduce the steps of Hanfu making and the common fabrics used in Hanfu making. I hope it will be helpful to you. 01 Steps & Difficulties of Hanfu Making The first step in Hanfu making is to determine the shape (style) and draw the pattern design. The second step of Hanfu making: determine the fabric and pattern. The process of fabric usually includes: printing (印花, yìn huā), embroidery (绣花, xiù huā), gold weaving (织金, zhī jīn), gold sprinkling (洒金, sa jīn), gold printing (印金, yìn jīn) and so on. For example, this one-piece pleated skirt is made with embroidery + decorations on the skirt head, gold and silver silk fabric (colorful silk fabric) + different printing patterns on the left and right + gold sprinkles and gold foil effect fabric and technology, rich in layers. Printed Patterns The fabric of the Hanfu needs careful preparation: because the patterns and embroidery printing may need to be redesigned and drawn, and even if there is a prototype of the pattern, it needs to refer to the material for…

This section contains Panling Robe (盘领袍), Lanshan (襕衫).Size range: 165/88A to 185/104A. Please read the introduction of the topic and how to use this guide in advance. Introduction In the Sui and Tang dynasties, the basic features of the Yuanling Shan (圆领衫, round neck shirt) were narrow sleeves, a slightly shorter length, and a straight strip of cloth standing on top of the collar. Later, the collar of the round neck shirt began to gradually become wider and lower, to the Song dynasty, has completely become the collar edge of the pan collar spreading, while the cuffs become larger, the body of the garment becomes longer. Ming-style Panling Pao (pan collar robe) added hem on the basis of Song style, its collar production process is generally straight cloth strip folded, and then ironed into shape, along the inner circle with line sewing tight, so that the collar edge curved to fit the round neckline, collar edge end nailed with buttons for fixed. The Panling Robe was widely used as imperial costumes and official uniforms in the Ming Dynasty, with the basic features of a pan collar, Pipa sleeves or wide sleeves, and hem on both sides of the garment. Only…

Hey everyone! So there were a couple people in my hanfu server asking about what different kinds of measurements of hanfu were. I answered and did a little compilation of the most basic measurements that you'll see on most sizing charts, if you're choosing a size and buying from a vendor, as well as some that are often used to create patterns and the like. Hope that it's a helpful reference! I've included both traditional and simplified characters in this for better reading and some of my own notes as helpful explanations, let me know if there's any questions you need answered.   Body Measurements Let’s start with the basic measurements of your own body.  - Height. Usually in centimeters, if you don’t understand any of the other measurements, this is the one you want to go by. - weight. often comes up in either kg or lbs, and it’s pretty easy to figure out which one through common sense. I would recommend that you don’t trust this one too much though since everyone is like… a different density. - three rounds, the standard starting point for more detailed measurements. These include the three below: - the bust. Measure around…

  Vocabulary Velvet Flower - 绒花 (rónghuā) - a realistically made flower made artificially from silk threads and copper wire. Palace Flower - 宫花 (gōng huā) - another way to call ronghua with the rise in popularities of ronghua to females in the palace. Untwisted Silks - 无捻蚕丝 (wú niǎn cánsī) - when it comes to silk threads, depending on the type and material of the threads, one single thread can be made up of thinner threads twisted together. Untwisted silk thread means there are no smaller twisted threads. You can directly skip to the brushing steps in ronghua making process. Hunan Embroidery Thread - 湘绣线 (xiāngxiù xiàn) - another type of thread used in ronghua making. Suzhou Embroidery Thread - 苏绣线 (sūxiù xiàn) - another type of thread used in ronghua making.   History 绒花, rónghuā, an artificial handcraft head accessories made from materials such as silks and coppers. It existed since the Qin Dynasty. There are many known “brands” of ronghuas, such as Nanjing Ronghua. In the Tang era, Wu Zetian listed Nanjing Ronghua as a royal tribute to the Yangzhou area becoming a luxury only princes and princesses can use. Eventually, Nanjing Ronghua became something that represents Nanjing but also…

This section contains Yisan (曳撒, yì sǎn).Size range: 165/88A to 185/104A. Please read the introduction of the topic and how to use this guide in advance. Introduction Yisan is one of the costumes of the Ming Dynasty, evolving from the Yuan Dynasty Bian Xian Ao (辫线袄), but it is still part of the hanfu system because it has a cross collar and has long been incorporated with Han Chinese elements. The shape of Yisan is very special. The front part is cut and sewn separately, the upper garment is short from the front, and the lower garment with pleats is connected at the waist. The back part is cut as a whole, the length is equal to the front garment length plus the lower garment length, and there are no pleats like other long garments. There is hem on both sides of Yisan, also called "Er (耳)" Yisan was mostly worn by military officials or members of the imperial family in the Ming Dynasty, and could be used as riding clothes, and one of the main uniforms of the Jingyiwei officers was Yisan. The fabric color of Yisan was usually red, blue, dark green, etc., and could be embroidered with…

Zimu Kou (子母扣, metal clasp button) is the most common accessory for making Ming-style Hanfu, and if you make a Ming Hanfu yourself, they are a must-buy material. Usually, you need about 7-10 buttons to make a Duijin Duan Shan (对襟短衫) with a stand-up collar. A good-looking Zimu Kou can become the highlight of the clothes, adding texture and a sense of sophistication, and good clothes should find a matching button to complement each other.   About Zimu Kou's selection Metal Zimu Kou is more suitable for autumn and winter Shan and Ao and other outer clothing, but sometimes too thin fabric to support too heavy Zimu Kou. Pifeng's Zimu Kou larger (only one, so need a larger one, can do embellishment, or highlight). Zimu Kou applied to the collar should choose easy to buckle on, the size of the buttons than the size of the garment is a little smaller. Gorgeous button style, more suitable for clothes with woven gold, dark pattern and so on.   About the care of Zimu Kou General copper and silver-plated material button are easier to oxidation, over time will become black. Usually to keep clean, dirty to wipe as soon as possible. If…

China has a long history of loving and appreciating flowers, but in fact, before the Northern and Southern Dynasties, flowers were rarely used as the main decorative motifs in life, from the Shang and Zhou dynasties to the Han dynasty, the dominant decorative motifs were mainly animal and geometric. It was not until the Wei-Jin-North and South Dynasties periods that, with the introduction of Buddhism, the Lonicera twining pattern was introduced into China, and under the development and effect of cultural intermingling, the Lonicera twining pattern with exotic colors was combined with the local lotus pattern with auspicious symbolic meaning, forming a new form of decorative pattern. These motifs first appeared in a large number in the decoration of religious instruments, and as they spread, they also appeared frequently in the decoration of secular crafts. In the Tang Dynasty, in addition to the floral patterns inherited from the Wei and Jin Dynasties, different floral shapes such as peonies and chrysanthemums, as well as the Baoxiang patterns also appeared in the expression of the decorative patterns. The floral patterns of the Tang Dynasty are very different from the slender and delicate shapes of the Wei and Jin Dynasties, with rich and…

Made this vest from the last of white striped chiffon. I am not patient enough to be a tutorial contributor. I like experimenting on sewing projects. So, after several encouragements from friends on here, I share this with everyone. Okay. I have made a hanfu outfit earlier and with some leftover material I decided to make this vest. Now, I have been unsure of myself. I worked with just a length of the material. So I modeled the pattern after a dui jin shan. Just without the sleeves. The result is two pieces after I cut the arm hole in. I then had to strew them lengthwise and mark out where to cut the inlet for the dui jin neck curve. Then, I began to sew from the spine together first. I had to use the inverse seamline method, because of how chiffon is. Next, the seams for the sides. So there it is: a vest without the trims. 😀 The trims and hemming weren't as difficult as I thought, because everything was straight lines. I did have to manipulate the neckline a little to fit the trim band. I made the neck collar extra long to leave the ends…

Original Author: Huafeng Mozhu (华风墨逐) Hanfu Cutting & Sewing Patterns Detail Zhongyi (中衣) Aoqun (袄裙) Ruqun (襦裙) Beizi (褙子) Pan collar Aoqun (盘领袄) Quju (曲裾) Banbi (半臂) Shuhe (裋褐) Zhiduo/Zhishen/Daopao (直裰/直身/道袍) Panling Pao/Lanshan (盘领袍/襕衫) Shenyi (深衣) Yisan (曳撒) Inspired Hanfu (改良汉服) Updating   Preface Ethnic costumes are different from ordinary clothes that only play the role of warmth and decoration, but they are one of the elements of the appearance of a nation and an important carrier of its traditional culture. It is also an important carrier of the traditional culture of a nation. The cultural connotation of traditional costumes of different nationalities is different, and it can naturally show the spiritual civilization and aesthetics of the nation. Hanfu is the traditional costume of the Han people, also known as "Han Zhuang" or "Hua Fu".Since the time of the Yellow Emperor, Yao and Shun, hanfu has taken a basic form, and after the inheritance of the rituals of the Zhou Dynasty, it has formed a perfect system of clothing and crown and spread to the people in the Han Dynasty. The hanfu had been developed for thousands of years until the fall of the Ming Dynasty, when it was temporarily stopped.…

This section contains Zhiduo (直裰), Zhishen (直身), Daopao (道袍). Size range: 165/88A to 185/104A. Please read the introduction of the topic and how to use this guide in advance.   Introduction Zhiduo is a kind of costume from the Song Dynasty, the initial is mostly worn by monks, a few literati also wear, Song Zhiduo is generally not slit. By the Ming Dynasty, Zhiduo had become widely popular among literati and scholars, and the basic features of Ming Zhiduo were the cross collar, knee-length garment, slit on both sides without Bai (摆), generally with a collar guard on the collar, and mostly with pipa sleeves. The cutting and sewing patterns in this chapter are based on Ming Zhiduo. Zhishen was also an important costume of the Ming Dynasty, as well as Zhiduo and Daopao, the basic features of Zhishen are the same as Zhiduo, with a cross collar, more collar protection, pipa sleeves, and knee-length, but the difference is that there is outside Bai on both sides in Zhishen. Daopao is one of the traditional costumes of Taoism, but it was also the main style of casual wear and dress for scholars in the Ming Dynasty, so Daopao was not…

From the enchanting landscapes of ancient China to the modern fashion runways, the timeless elegance of Hanfu garments continues to captivate hearts across the globe. As we embrace the warmth of summer, it's time to dive into the fascinating world of fabrics that effortlessly blend tradition with comfort, bringing forth a refreshing sartorial experience. Still bothered by what fabric is cooler for hanfu? This article will introduce you some common fabrics for summer hanfu.   01 Preliminary introduction to modern clothing fabrics Modern clothing materials can generally be categorized into three types: natural fibers, artificial fibers, and synthetic fibers. Artificial and synthetic fibers can also be combined to form chemical fiber. Natural fiber mainly refers to animal or plant-based fibers such as cotton, linen, wool and silk. Cotton has excellent moisture absorption properties while being breathable and warm but is prone to wrinkling; linen fiber doesn't curl easily but wrinkles easily with a rougher texture. Artificial fiber (also known as regenerated fiber) is made from natural polymers. According to the shape and usage of artificial fibers, they are divided into three categories: rayon, viscose staple fiber, and artificial wool. Important varieties include viscose fibre, acetate fibre, cuprammonium rayon fibre etc.…

As one of the most popular styles of hanfu, Ming Dynasty Aoqun has a rich variety of styles and styles, and the Jiaoling Aoqun is one of the most common styles. This article is based on the artifacts of Jiaoling Aoqun, so that you can quickly understand the correct Ming Dynasty Aoqun top shape for your next hanfu purchase as well as hanfu making. Image quoted from hanfu making hobbyist @Sue簌簌.   1 Overall 1.1 Youren (右衽, the left lapel covers the right lapel). 1.2 A single layer is a Shan (衫) and a double layer is a Ao (袄). Shan (left), Ao (right) 1.3 Cutting method: with center seam and no shoulder seam.   2 Collar   3 Sleeves 3.1 Aoqun top can have a variety of sleeve shapes. 3.2 Pipa sleeves are wide, not narrow. 3.3 The benchmark through-arm length of Pipa sleeves is nearly two meters. 3.4 The sleeve root should not be too narrow. 3.5 The sleeve is divided into a section or two sections connected. 3.6 Sleeve pleats often accompany the existence of the sleeve edge.   4 Garment body 4.1 The underarms should be curved. 4.2 It is right with or without shoulder pleats.…

Tips for Ironing Hanfu Tops Silk, Cotton and linen Since this type of fabric is a non-chemical synthetic natural material, it requires a higher requirement for ironing. Silk For hanfu made of silk, it is relatively less wrinkle-resistant and therefore needs to be ironed to be straight and beautiful. To keep clothes in a semi-dry state when ironing (or use a spray can to wet clothes evenly before ironing), set to low-temperature ironing (or "silk" file) ironing is best to choose a flat, wide place for the ironing table. Before ironing, lay a layer of white cotton linen for the bottom. If you are using a hanging ironing machine, it is best to use a wooden hanger, in the process of ironing do not over-pull the sleeves, just gently lift, so as not to cause clothing deformation. So the best conditions to use the ironing board, more convenient ironing underarm, collar, and other details. Cotton and linen Clothes made of cotton and linen are more resistant to high temperatures compared to silk and chemical fibers. However, when ironing it is best to iron the inside first to avoid the color spreading. When ironing the outside, pad the fabric with white…

This section contains Aoqun (袄裙), which can be divided into: Duan Ao (短袄), Da Ao (大袄), Mamian Qun (马面裙). Size range: Duan Ao and Da Ao (155/80A to 175/96A),  Mamian Qun (155/80A to 175/80A). Please read the introduction of the topic and how to use this guide in advance.     Introduction In the Ming Dynasty, women's Hanfu clothing is very popular in the form of clothes cover skirt way of dress, the most common "Aoqun (袄裙)" is a Ming Dynasty women's clothing general term, that is, the upper Ao (袄, jacket) with the lower Qun (裙, skirt) with the way, and not a single piece of clothing. The "Ao" in this section refers to a cross-necked female top, and the "Qun" refers to a Mamian Qun (horse-face skirt). Early Hanfu tops were mostly called "Ru (襦)", and after the Wei and Jin Dynasties, they were also called "Ao" and "Shan (衫, shirt)". Nowadays, it is generally considered that the Aoqun is longer and covers the waist of the skirt, while the one that requires the clothes to be tucked into the waist of the skirt is the Ruqun (襦裙), but both belong to the Ruqun system. The Ming-style Aoqun…