Almost forgot to mention that the phrase “ancient costume is not hanfu” is sometimes used in certain contexts within the hanfu community's theoretical framework. For instance, when discussing more unconventional ancient garments like official robes with peculiar collars or open necklines. The essence of hanfu, as defined by the hanfu community, lies in its representation of the Han ethnicity, thus their standards for hanfu require widespread adoption over a long period and must be absorbed under conditions conducive to the development of hanfu. These criteria are said to be continuously refined to meet new needs. Under these standards, many ancient garments do not qualify as hanfu, but what should they be called then? Such garments are collectively referred to as “ancient costumes.” Ancient costumes = hanfu + ancient costumes, such is the capricious nature of the community's terminology.
Chinese historical dramas often feature characters wearing long robes with crossed collars (though there's no factual basis for this). The hanfu community refers to these as “large-sleeved shirts” or “overcoats” (arbitrary terms). Naturally, Qin and Han dynasty historical dramas follow suit, incorporating such elements into their hanfu designs. The TV series “The Emperor: Owner of the Great Han” featured such large-sleeved shirts with traditional skirted robes, leading some to question the authenticity of this combination, as there seems to be no historical evidence supporting it. After much debate, the consensus was to avoid using them.
The tutorial “Hanfu Hairstyling Guide” showcasing an aesthetic sense reminiscent of ancient Chinese styles has become incredibly popular among netizens who express great fondness for traditional hairstyles. Uploaded on February 5th, 2020, by Haohan Guanshijie, the video provides a simple guide to creating beautiful and ethereal ancient-style hairstyles. It has been viewed 4 times and is available on Yuxin Storytelling's channel, part of Baidu's professional short video aggregation platform that combines both quality and beauty.
Of course, I'm not entirely dismissing the potential indirect impact of historical dramas on the resurgence of hanfu. However, it seems this influence might have been overstated, indicating that even highly popular historical dramas may not significantly promote hanfu. This article aims to highlight that while historical dramas could serve as an excellent catalyst for boosting product sales, their promotional efforts remain confined within the hanfu community, lacking sufficient outreach to those outside the community.
Considering various cases across different communities, one solution could be to broaden the definition of the “hanfu” community. Instead of excluding or labeling different groups, we could categorize them under different classifications within the hanfu community. Just as Lolita fashion includes sweet, classic, gothic, and vintage styles, each with distinct motivations yet coexisting harmoniously, the hanfu community could also include categories such as restorationists, researchers, reformers, and fusionists, or realists, fantasists, and everyday wearers. Uniting those who appreciate Chinese ancient styles would be more beneficial than dividing them.
In 2015, two phenomenal historical dramas emerged online: “The Legend of Miyue,” starring Sun Li, and “Nirvana in Fire,” starring Hu Ge. While “The Legend of Miyue” incorporated numerous elements from Qin dynasty attire, it faced criticism from the hanfu community for its inaccuracies, exaggerated colors, and cheap appearance. In contrast, the fictional historical drama “Nirvana in Fire” received praise for its elegant costumes that skillfully integrated multiple hanfu elements. That same year, “Love Yunge from the Desert,” directed by Yu Zheng, was criticized for its garish color palette and poor quality, sparking heated discussions within the hanfu community. As if in a symbiotic relationship, the growing influence of the hanfu community led the film and television industry to pay unprecedented attention to historical costumes, while the continuous popularity of historical dramas increased public awareness of hanfu.
However, in the early days of the hanfu community, it was common practice to use images from historical dramas as reference points for promotion. Not only did members replicate poses seen in dramas, but they also compared their outfits to those in the shows when interacting with non-community members. Today's perception of hanfu as resembling costumes from TV dramas can be traced back to the early behaviors of the hanfu community, which ironically became the primary reason for many community members to criticize outsiders' lack of knowledge. On October 30, 2003, the first hanfu business, “Caivei Workshop,” based in Wuhan, uploaded the first set of modern hanfu product photos, marking it as the first hanfu business in the hanfu movement.
Since 2003, when enthusiasts initiated the “hanfu revival movement,” the term “hanfu” has been reinterpreted by the ancient costume community to mean “traditional Han ethnic clothing from the Yellow Emperor to the late Ming Dynasty,” excluding post-Ming dynasty Han attire from the category, effectively turning hanfu into a synonym for a mishmash of ancient costumes. Luo Xuehui, “Hanfu Pioneers,” China Newsweek Issue 33, 2005 Zhang Xian, “Hanfu Movement: Ethnic Nationalism in the Internet Era,” Journal of the Chinese Youth Academy, Issue 4, 2009
Today, the popularity of ancient styles is on the rise. Opening apps like Douyin, Kuaishou, or platforms like Bilibili, you'll find many girls sharing their ancient costume looks and educating others about hanfu and other traditional garments. Although the ancient style community is relatively new, many girls have always harbored a passion for ancient costumes and a strong admiration for Chinese traditional culture. Consequently, the ancient style community has grown increasingly popular, and it's now common to see girls dressed in ancient costumes on the streets.
Hello, this is Su Han, a wild hanfu enthusiast. If you don't understand hanfu, it's best not to enter the hanfu community. It's normal to face criticism for wearing hanfu-inspired clothing. The hanfu community has many rules. Wearing hanfu-inspired, studio costumes, or knockoffs and facing criticism is understandable. The community primarily consists of hanfu enthusiasts, and hanfu-inspired clothing doesn't count as hanfu. Many people who wear knockoffs or studio costumes feel superior, but entering the community requires respecting its rules. There are many respected figures in the community who wear expensive hanfu and look down on newcomers. This is why I prefer being a wild enthusiast. I've been into hanfu for over a year, buying affordable hanfu that can't compare to the thousands spent by others, but I never brag. Where I live, it's hard to find fellow enthusiasts, and there are many people wearing studio costumes who feel superior. Accepting suggestions from newcomers is commendable. If you love hanfu but don't want to join the community, you can be a wild enthusiast. As long as you don't wear knockoffs or unrelated costumes, we can still be friends. Add me to your contacts list.