The people of the Wei Jin period revered nature and transcended materialism, being self-admiring and free-spirited. Thus, their attire was mostly characterized by loose robes with large sleeves, broad bands, and an unconstrained demeanor. However, it is essential to distinguish between the “Wei Jin style” that suddenly became popular in recent years and traditional Hanfu from the Wei Jin era. In recent years, a type of Hanfu featuring crossed-collar wide sleeves directly draped over a large-sleeved robe became fashionable. Actually, this style does not belong to Hanfu as there are no unearthed relics or related textual evidence to support it; it is a form imagined by merchants. Images provided by Dali Hua Shang Gu Feng Photography Studio.
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The Wei Jin style is not equal to Jin Ruku!!!(Emphasis added), this is something many people may still be unaware of. Many Hanfu merchants sell clothes in the Wei Jin style, which can easily mislead people into thinking they are also Hanfu. In reality, the so-called Wei Jin style currently lacks relevant archaeological evidence and is mostly derived from improvements based on the imagined “Wei Jin style spirit” seen in films and television. It's fine to wear them normally, but if there's a specific Hanfu event, it's best not to wear them out, otherwise, you might get repeatedly educated by Hanfu enthusiasts, which could be a bit embarrassing.
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The various styles of Wei Jin clothing belong to the pinnacle of speculative costume design, including sets such as large-sleeved robes with crossed-collar wide-sleeved skirts and large-sleeved robes with straight-hemmed skirts, originating from a series of original “Wei Jin style spirit” costumes created by merchants, having nothing to do with actual Wei Jin clothing. If asked about appropriate occasions for wearing “Wei Jin style” clothing, it would only be suitable for shooting ancient-themed photos in a forest with fans. After 2019, the Wei Jin style gradually withdrew from the market, with some remaining styles now masquerading under the guise of Song Dynasty-style Hanfu, selling dog meat under the sign of mutton. The Zaju skirt originates from several online “ancient clothing diagrams,” with two variations: the wolf-tooth large shield style and the spinning blade style. The wide-sleeved Northern Dynasty robe refers to certain pottery figurines for its creation, with only sleeve fragments found among cultural relics, leaving much room for speculation.
A new wave of invented designs emerged. From 2016 to 2019, the most distinctive feature was the rise and fall of the Wei Jin style. With the community no longer dominated by a single group and fellow enthusiasts gaining the power to supervise and question, the excessive proliferation of inherently problematic clothing inevitably drew attention. This attention helped eliminate unreasonable elements, promoting the development of the Hanfu movement, which is beneficial to the movement. As newly born invented designs, the excessive proliferation of inherently problematic clothing inevitably attracted criticism. Soon, the Wei Jin style began to face attacks and boycotts. By the end of 2019, the number of merchants selling Wei Jin style had dropped to 0%. Even though the Wei Jin style fell, countless other “styles” rose to take its place. In addition, the sudden appearance of the Wei Jin style in 2016 diverted attention from Qixiong, extending its lifespan for another year. With one year of market dominance, Qixiong became the undisputed king of invented designs. By 2019, more than 50% of merchants were selling Qixiong. As the Hanfu movement developed and competition in the Hanfu market intensified, merchants sought profit, leading to more innovative designs. Compared to individual creations driven by personal motivations, the profit-driven innovations of merchants have a greater impact, especially when catering to the aesthetic preferences of those who view Hanfu as ancient-style clothing. The result is that one invented design becomes popular, then another takes its place, giving the impression to some observers that “today it's Hanfu, tomorrow it's not, I'm tired of this, I don't want to love anymore.” These consumers, less knowledgeable than those debating on accuracy, become strong supporters after purchasing these outfits. Around 2018, the “Huajia” style, derived from “Qixiong” and “Qiyao,” gradually gained popularity, becoming a favorite “super fairy-like” attire among enthusiasts. Additionally, with the exclusion of studio-style Zhiju and the influence of several older merchants, cross-dressing with Ruqun became prevalent again, becoming the most popular and widespread invented male attire. In 2020, Hezi skirts and Zaju once again resurfaced, used by some merchants to make profits, with some long-legged “Yunjian” and Qing Dynasty women's clothing also sold as Hanfu.
. Look at the product titles. Counterfeit stores will pile on many elements to increase exposure, such as adding a string of terms like “Chinese style,” “ancient style,” “costume,” “studio,” “Hanfu element,” “modernized,” “Wei Jin style,” “student,” “airy,” “flowing,” “Douyin,” etc. Genuine Hanfu merchants would never write titles like this; they often add the phrase “not a costume” to distinguish themselves from ancient style and ancient costumes. Counterfeit stores do the opposite purely for marketing exposure.
The early Hanfu was also imitating costumes from TV dramas, lacking rigorous historical research. We call this “the tears of an era,” including the fairy-like Wei Jin style clothing, with Han Shang Hualian as a classic example of fairy-like clothing. Initially, they made a batch of clothes in the Wei Jin style spirit series, mainly for ancient-style realism, similar to studio costumes, but not sold as Hanfu. Because they were very airy and fairy-like, sales were good, so they became popular. However, the design references came from Hong Kong and Taiwan TV dramas, with no trace in history, hence most people do not recognize Wei Jin style clothing as Hanfu.
Due to its flowing nature, it was called Wei Jin style, but it actually has nothing to do with the Wei Jin period. Subsequently, many merchants followed suit, gradually forming the “Wei Jin style.” This term is similar to “He style” and “ancient style,” referring to a style rather than actual clothing from the Wei Jin period. It includes the set of shallow-crossed-collar skirt with large-sleeved robe and shallow-crossed-collar large-sleeved Zhiju, both belonging to studio costumes. By the end of 2018, it was initially excluded.
The Wei Jin style is easily confused with Jin style. Wei Jin style Hanfu looks fairy-like overall, especially with its large sleeves. Many costumes in martial arts-themed TV dramas are modified based on the Wei Jin style, so Wei Jin style Hanfu has a touch of martial arts and a sense of righteous vengeance. Currently, most merchants in the market produce more crossed-collar skirts in the Wei Jin style, with a large-sleeved robe worn outside. Wei Jin style Hanfu mainly consists of shirt-and-skirt outfits, generally with loose tops and inner waistbands, which is the most significant feature. Tang Dynasty style Tang Dynasty Hanfu.