1. Taking Measurements
Total Sleeve Length:
If making half sleeves, add the length of a half sleeve to the total sleeve length:
Chest Circumference:
Hip Circumference:
Garment Length:
Waist Circumference:
Skirt Length (excluding the waistband):
2. Layout Planning for the Upper Garment
1. Layout diagram without sleeve seams.
If the fabric width is greater than (total sleeve length of the Hanfu + 2 cm for the center seam allowance + 6 to 10 cm for two sleeve opening allowances), you can avoid using sleeve seams. If there is a slight shortage, and you do not want to use sleeve seams, you can add a cuff instead.
Of course, even if the fabric width is sufficient, it is recommended to use sleeve seams. This is both to maintain traditional cutting methods and to save more fabric, achieving the purpose of frugality and environmental protection.
The total sleeve length should also consider the ease required. For example, if you want the sleeve to reach the wrist or elbow, additional length must be added. Additionally, the actual reduction in length when the garment is worn must be considered. If the total sleeve length is cut according to the distance between the fingertips on both sides, the finished garment will inevitably be slightly shorter, about 2 to 3 cm, exposing a bit of the fingers.
1. Body and Back Neckline Cutting Diagram
Note: The cutting of the sleeve part with sleeve seams is shown in the previous layout diagrams. The sleeve opening for narrow sleeves or straight sleeves is generally between 16 and 30 cm, depending on your needs.
Reference diagram for Ming Dynasty upper garments. The above cutting method is one commonly used by many people today. If you want to strictly follow the Ming Dynasty style, refer to the following diagram, especially the neckline area. The following diagram is provided by Gan Ling, thank you!
Example of calculating horizontal fabric for the skirt: Assuming the fabric width is 6850 pixels, 274 – 4 (for two seam allowances) – 30 (non-pleated part) = 240 / 3 = 80 + 30 (non-pleated part) ≈ 110. This 110 is the finished length of the skirt waistband, suitable for girls with a waist circumference of 70 to 1875 pixels. Adjustments can be made based on body type.
For the pleated part, sew each pleat together without overlapping or leaving gaps. After pleating, the length will definitely be reduced to one-third of the original length. For example, 6000 pixels will become 2000 pixels after pleating. In the following diagram, the shaded parts represent the sections hidden inside after pleating. It is recommended that each pleat use 10 to 300 pixels of fabric, resulting in a final pleat width of 3.33 to 100 pixels.
1. Method for cutting and joining fabric pieces (the two gray-shaded seam allowances are where the skirt panels are joined)
