Pattern References for Quju Deep Clothing, Ruqun, Banbi, and Beizi

Quju Deep Clothing

Note One on Quju Making: The Origin of the Fish-Tail Skirt Effect

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This is the Quju unearthed from Mawangdui. It should be considered standard… Correctly speaking, it is “three wraps around the knee.” Although it is called a Quju, it actually has one side with a straight hem (right angle) and the other side with a curved hem (triangular). When worn, hold the corner of the curved hem and wrap it around the leg twice, then secure it with a waistband. Usually, a wide skirt is worn underneath. When the deep clothing is tightened by wrapping around the legs, the skirt below appears wider, spreading out like a fish tail. This is the feeling we see in the court women's costumes in “Emperor Wu of Han.” In this way, the legs are tightened, and the hem spreads out, emphasizing the soft curves of the female figure. More importantly, half of it is a straight hem, while the other half is triangular, which is worth noting!

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Pattern References for Quju Deep Clothing, Ruqun, Banbi, and Beizi-4

Note Two on Quju Making: How to Keep the Collar Edge Smooth?

Pattern References for Quju Deep Clothing, Ruqun, Banbi, and Beizi-5 — Why is such a large opening made at the green line in the image above?

The issue of the green edge opening is due to the extension of the side seam, which increases the freedom of movement of the lower garment. This keeps the upper garment and the lower garment in a semi-independent state. By tying the belt at the opening, it does not press down on the inner lapel, avoiding constraints on the red line area of the inner lapel. At the same time, the upper garment is not pulled to the right, keeping the neck smooth.

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Diagram Notes:

1. The dimensions at the collar represent the cut-out hole.

2. The vertical strip on the right can serve as a ruler.

3. The middle part is the layout diagram, excluding the collar.

4. The fabric width in the diagram is 143 cm. If the fabric width is different, adjustments are needed.

The rectangular shape and the large curved piece of fabric form the lower garment. After removing the two sleeves, the remaining part is the upper garment, making a total of three pieces. The small triangle is added to the left lapel, where one corner is exposed outside the fabric.

Straight-Hemmed Deep Clothing