Many people mistakenly believe that traditional Hanfu is clothing from the Han Dynasty, but in fact, traditional Hanfu refers to traditional Han nationality attire, not specifically Han Dynasty clothing. For instance, the attire from the Qing and Yuan Dynasties are not considered traditional Hanfu; however, traditional Hanfu also faded out of mainstream history with the fall of the Ming Dynasty. Traditional Hanfu is one of the oldest ethnic costumes on Earth, having a history spanning over 5000 years. Throughout these 5000 years, traditional Hanfu has experienced the rule of many dynasties, and its development has undergone continuous changes due to the differences in etiquette, aesthetics, ideology, textile technology, and classification during each dynasty's reign.
The term “ancient costume” is a general reference to historical attire, which includes many detailed categories. For example, within ancient costumes, there is Hanfu, as well as the clothing of princes and princesses from the Qing Dynasty, dragon phoenix gowns, and wedding dresses. These are more specific classifications within ancient costumes. New couples should choose the most suitable ancient costume style based on their body type and preferences. For instance, those with a slender figure might opt for Hanfu or Qing Dynasty princess (or prince) attire; while those with a fuller figure might choose dragon phoenix gowns or wedding dresses, etc.
The main styles of traditional Hanfu have been continuously evolving with each dynasty. The classification methods of traditional Hanfu are not simple; some are based on the system, while others are based on the function and purpose of the attire. In summary, there are numerous categories. Traditional Hanfu directly influenced the development of Japanese kimono and Korean hanbok, essentially being imitated by them. Currently, Japan and South Korea have their national costumes, primarily because their styles are simpler and easier to promote; conversely, the diverse styles of traditional Hanfu make it more challenging to promote, which is one reason why traditional Hanfu has not become a unified national costume. There are many reasons, including the diversity of categories, etc.
Hanfu is the world's oldest ethnic costume, with a history spanning over 4000 years. During these 4000 years, it has experienced the rule of multiple dynasties, and its development has continuously changed with the social evolution. The differences in etiquette, aesthetics, ideology, production technology, and hierarchical division in each dynasty have led to constant changes and innovations in the main systems. Classification methods are not simple; they include system-based, function-based, and “Dynasty-style” classification methods, among others.
Through the drawing of a time zone knowledge map using CiteSpace (Figure 4), we can explore the evolutionary trends of knowledge over time, visually showing the updates of papers and their interconnections, and sorting out the phased hotspots in this research field [6]. From Figure 4, we can see that keywords such as “Hanfu”, “Han nationality”, and “national costume” appeared earlier, while keywords like “purchase intention”, “cultural dissemination”, and “innovation and inheritance” appeared later. According to the changes in keywords, it can be shown that the hotspots in Hanfu research have evolved. By combining the analysis of the figures and Figure 4, this paper divides the domestic Hanfu research time zone hotspots into three phases: slow development period, steady growth period, and active expansion period.
In the Mawangdui tombs, we unearthed Hanfu, and this Hanfu strictly followed the hat and robe system described in the “Rites of Zhou,” indicating that ancient attire indeed had strict hierarchical divisions, which was consistent with the feudal hierarchy. People of higher status naturally wore more luxurious and elegant clothing, while commoners who engaged in farming and heavy labor needed simpler attire; otherwise, wearing long robes while farming or weaving would be very inconvenient.
The basic forms of Hanfu are mainly the “separated top and bottom” system, the “connected bottom” system, and the “unified cutting” system. Although the styles and aesthetic tastes of Hanfu have changed to varying degrees over time, they have remained within the scope of these basic forms. The basic characteristics of Hanfu are cross-collar, right-side fastening, tied with ropes, supplemented by hooks, etc., while also using round-collar, straight-collar, and other forms. However, the fabrics and colors of Hanfu were strictly hierarchically divided in history. As recorded in “The Wealth of Nations” by Xunzi: “The Son of Heaven wears embroidered robes, the feudal lords wear black robes, the ministers wear supplementary robes, and the scholars wear leather caps and robes.” [2] This demonstrates the hierarchical nature of Hanfu in terms of color.
Hanfu is Han nationality attire, not specifically Han Dynasty clothing, with the latter included in the former. Attire from the Qing and Yuan Dynasties cannot be called Hanfu. Hanfu is the world's oldest ethnic costume, with a history spanning over 4000 years. During these 4000 years, it has experienced the rule of multiple dynasties, and its development has continuously changed with the social evolution. The differences in etiquette, aesthetics, ideology, production technology, and hierarchical division in each dynasty have led to constant changes and innovations in the main systems. Classification methods are not simple; they include system-based, function-based, and “Dynasty-style” classification methods, among others.
Designing, producing, wholesaling, retailing, renting, and photographing Hanfu, etc. Enterprises catering to large groups have existed for a long time, while enterprises catering to small groups are just starting. At the same time, small groups will further divide into more subgroups internally, such as purist Hanfu enthusiasts who follow rules and completely mimic the styles of ancient costumes, clearly distinguishing Tang, Song, and Ming Dynasty attire. There are also those who prioritize comfort, purely for entertainment without adhering to many rules. And there are pure appearance photography enthusiasts who only care about the look, disregarding rules and not minding the inconvenience of wearing them.
Moreover, according to Liu Hai Chao's introduction, there are many considerations when shooting ancient costume photos. In ancient China, hierarchical divisions could be clearly identified from clothing and accessories. When shooting ancient costume photos, especially palace lady photos, it is not enough to simply apply palace lady makeup and put on an ancient costume. The selection of clothing styles and accessories must be based on the chosen hierarchy. Clothing for queen photos must differ from that for ordinary palace ladies. The Han Dynasty emphasized etiquette, so every movement in Hanfu photos must be precise. Most people are unaware of this and need correct guidance from photography studios. Different dynasties contain different cultures, so the spirit and feeling conveyed in the photos vary. It is easy to photograph a woman in ancient costume, but capturing the essence requires appropriate scene setting, makeup, and attire. In particular, the requirements for photographers are higher. It is recommended that ladies choose larger photography studios when shooting ancient costume photos to achieve a more charming effect.