Original work by the owner of the Qianyun Pavilion. There are currently no related archaeological findings to reference for the half-sleeve, so this cutting diagram is for reference only… Coming from the Hanwang network, I've been lurking for a long time; today, I'm surfacing to post what I believe to be a detailed thread, step-by-step recording the process of making Hanfu, hoping to provide some reference for fellow enthusiasts, especially those who want to make their own but don't know how to start. The production process is based on my experience, not professional; it's merely for exchange, aiming to offer a starting point. It might be a bit lengthy, so please read it patiently and carefully. For beginners in making Hanfu, they may face a desired style but not know how to start. In fact, making Hanfu is really simple, but doing it meticulously requires careful consideration. From material selection to cutting to sewing techniques, each step is not easy. I still recommend progressing from simple to complex, always pursuing precision in production. But most importantly, it should be about making Hanfu practical for daily life, simple yet functional. Today, I will introduce the process of making a crossed-collar half-sleeve. The existence of the crossed-collar half-sleeve may be controversial, but from a practical perspective, I think it is warmer. Whether worn alone in spring and summer or over inner clothes in autumn and winter, it is versatile and easier to integrate into our daily lives. Here, as an example, the half-sleeve dimensions are a length of 50, chest circumference of 85, and sleeve length of 5. First, prepare materials, including rulers, chalk, scissors, materials for trimming, and the main fabric for the garment. Then lay the fabric flat, folded in half. Most Hanfu is cut symmetrically, so when laying out the fabric, pay attention to aligning with the grain of the cloth because the horizontal and vertical stretchability varies depending on the weaving method, which affects the fit of the finished garment. Then we determine the center line first. For crossed-collar garments, the fit is adjusted through ties, so the center line deviates from the edge. The calculation formula is (1/4 chest circumference + 0~2 cm). Next, determine the width of the chest line, which deviates from the center line by (1/4 chest + 2 cm + cm). The height of the chest line varies by individual, and men and women differ. The chest line height here is 20. Mark this point. Then there's the size of the neckline. Based on personal experience, the width of the neckline is between 6 cm and 9 cm, depending on the size and construction of the collar. The most critical point is the position of the point below the collar, which directly affects whether the collar fits. Personally, I think the best measurement is 35~40 cm below the shoulder line. Connect these two points, offsetting CM at the chest line point, then draw an arc (since the human body is oval-shaped, for a better fit). Next, for the hem, generally speaking, the size gradually increases from the waist down, and the hip circumference is slightly larger than the chest (although this varies by individual), so the hem points are set a little larger. Then determine the sleeve length. Since the upper arm moves frequently, the armpit should have a slight curve, and the sleeve opening should not be less than 20 cm. Two points to note: one, there should be a slight curve under the armpit for a better fit. Two, move the hem up CM and cut it into a small arc, making it more fitting. [Hanfu Cutting Diagram] Step-by-Step Post on Making a Crossed-Collar Half-Sleeve Original work by the owner of the Qianyun Pavilion. PS: There are currently no related archaeological findings for the half-sleeve, so this cutting diagram is for reference only. I've been lurking on the Hanwang network for a long time; today, I'm surfacing to post what I believe to be a detailed thread, step-by-step recording the process of making Hanfu, hoping to provide some reference for fellow enthusiasts, especially those who want to make their own but don't know how to start. The production process is merely a starting point. After positioning the clothes, let's get started. Symmetrical cutting has the advantage of being completed with just a few cuts. First, cut out the external contour along the lines, then cut off the back piece of the neckline (lower than the shoulder line by 1.5 cm, don't cut too deep, remember to dig smoothly around the arc, which directly affects whether the collar fits snugly around the neck; remember, the neck is round). Next, cut open the folded fabric, then cut out the front piece's arc of the first layer. Then spread out the fabric, draw and cut out the center line of the first and second layers. Finally, align the left and right pieces of fabric according to the front-to-front and back-to-back method, then cut out the neckline. How does that sound? It's pretty easy to cut out, right? [Hanfu Cutting Diagram] Step-by-Step Post on Making a Crossed-Collar Half-Sleeve Original work by the owner of the Qianyun Pavilion. PS: There are currently no related archaeological findings for the half-sleeve, so this cutting diagram is for reference only. I've been lurking on the Hanwang network for a long time; today, I'm surfacing to post what I believe to be a detailed thread, step-by-step recording the process of making Hanfu, hoping to provide some reference for fellow enthusiasts, especially those who want to make their own but don't know how to start. The production process is merely a starting point. With the main garment cut, we start cutting the trimming. Use a flexible ruler to measure the length of the collar trimming along the curved neckline, plus the sewing allowance (generally 2 cm on each end). Cut out the trimming, then cut the paper interfacing. Don't underestimate this thin layer of cotton paper; it can ensure your collar is stiff and snug rather than wrinkled. Iron the paper interfacing onto the back of the trimming using high heat on the ironing board, then symmetrically press and shape the trimming. Here's a tip: to make sewing easier later, you can first press the sewing allowances on both sides on the ironing board, about the width of a finger. [Hanfu Cutting Diagram] Step-by-Step Post on Making a Crossed-Collar Half-Sleeve Original work by the owner of the Qianyun Pavilion. PS: There are currently no related archaeological findings for the half-sleeve, so this cutting diagram is for reference only. I've been lurking on the Hanwang network for a long time; today, I'm surfacing to post what I believe to be a detailed thread, step-by-step recording the process of making Hanfu, hoping to provide some reference for fellow enthusiasts, especially those who want to make their own but don't know how to start. The production process is merely a starting point. Today, we begin sewing the garment. Lay the cut pieces of fabric with the right sides together, facing inward. First, sew the back two pieces together, then start sewing the garment from the sleeve opening, slowly following the curve at the armpit. Remember to snip after sewing to prevent stiffness when wearing. However, don't sew all the way to the bottom; leave at least ten centimeters of seam allowance. Because if the garment is too tight when moving, leaving a slit allows for more freedom of movement. Of course, you can also reserve extra dimensions and sew the hem together (but who knows if you'll gain weight?). After completing this step, the next tasks are hemming the sleeve openings and edges. Fold the edges inward twice, enclosing the raw edges, then start sewing a line to press the edges. Pay attention to maintaining a uniform speed and distance, which requires a certain level of skill. [Hanfu Cutting Diagram] Step-by-Step Post on Making a Crossed-Collar Half-Sleeve Original work by the owner of the Qianyun Pavilion. PS: There are currently no related archaeological findings for the half-sleeve, so this cutting diagram is for reference only. I've been lurking on the Hanwang network for a long time; today, I'm surfacing to post what I believe to be a detailed thread, step-by-Step recording the process of making Hanfu, hoping to provide some reference for fellow enthusiasts, especially those who want to make their own but don't know how to start. The production process is nearly complete. You can stretch and rest for a moment. [Hanfu Cutting Diagram] Step-by-Step Post on Making a Crossed-Collar Half-Sleeve Original work by the owner of the Qianyun Pavilion. PS: There are currently no related archaeological findings for the half-sleeve, so this cutting diagram is for reference only. I've been lurking on the Hanwang network for a long time; today, I'm surfacing to post what I believe to be a detailed thread, step-by-Step recording the process of making Hanfu, hoping to provide some reference for fellow enthusiasts, especially those who want to make their own but don't know how to start. The production process is merely a starting point. Dear viewers and guests, the crucial moment has arrived: attaching the collar. This is actually the most challenging part of the process. How to attach the collar smoothly and fit properly? As previously mentioned, “cutting accounts for 30% of the work, sewing for 70%”, indicating the importance of sewing skills. The order of sewing and adjustment techniques can help compensate for many small issues during cutting. First, sew four small straps, remembering to leave the edges unsewn. After sewing, turn them inside out for use; these are the garment's ties. Then, align the well-ironed trimming with the outer edge of the main fabric, first sewing a line from the outside to position it, then aligning the trimming and sewing. Use basting pins to secure a few points inside; this is crucial for beginners. Sewing an arc without deformation is quite difficult. This is the key technique for attaching the collar. After positioning, leave a centimeter of seam allowance at the closure and cut. Then, fold the trimming inside out and place the previously prepared ties in the middle, sewing a line. Both ends of the trimming are done similarly. [Hanfu Cutting Diagram] Step-by-Step Post on Making a Crossed-Collar Half-Sleeve Original work by the owner of the Qianyun Pavilion. PS: There are currently no related archaeological findings for the half-sleeve, so this cutting diagram is for reference only. I've been lurking on the Hanwang network for a long time; today, I'm surfacing to post what I believe to be a detailed thread, step-by-Step recording the process of making Hanfu, hoping to provide some reference for fellow enthusiasts, especially those who want to make their own but don't know how to start. The production process is nearly complete. Turn it inside out and start sewing the main fabric's edge into the trimming along the pre-pressed line. Follow the pre-pinned points, sewing in small sections while carefully adjusting the fabric's tension to keep it flat. Otherwise, it will wrinkle easily because the lower fabric tends to pull tighter than the upper fabric during sewing. Beginners should pay special attention to this. I won't go into detail about this process. Please feel free to try and understand it yourself. After sewing, lay the garment flat, mark the tie positions with chalk, and proceed with the final step: attaching the ties. The method of attaching the ties is to first sew repeatedly against the tie direction, then fold it over and sew again, ensuring stability. Ta-da! A simple and practical half-sleeve is complete. Did you understand? Thank you! Thank you! Thank you for your support! (Haha, finally uploaded everything.) Finally, let's give applause to the main contributors this time (scissors, measuring tape, basting pins, ruler, paper interfacing, chalk). Do you have these tools ready? They are your best partners in making Hanfu effortlessly, so start making your own Hanfu sooner. Only by starting can you make progress; otherwise, everything remains at the starting point. [Hanfu Cutting Diagram] Step-by-Step Post on Making a Crossed-Collar Half-Sleeve Original work by the owner of the Qianyun Pavilion. PS: There are currently no related archaeological findings for the half-sleeve, so this cutting diagram is for reference only. I've been lurking on the Hanwang network for a long time; today, I'm surfacing to post what I believe to be a detailed thread, step-by-Step recording the process of making Hanfu, hoping to provide some reference for fellow enthusiasts, especially those who want to make their own but don't know how to start. The production process is nearly complete. I've been lurking on the Hanwang network for a long time; today, I'm surfacing to post what I believe to be a detailed thread, step-by-Step recording the process of making Hanfu, hoping to provide some reference for fellow enthusiasts, especially those who want to make their own but don't know how to start. The production process is nearly complete.
This is a basic tutorial for making Hanfu. The purpose of this book is to teach readers the skills of Hanfu pattern making, cutting, and sewing. The book provides seven case studies, detailing the process of making Hanfu items such as bodices, crossed-collar shirts, improved underpants, mamian skirts, pleated skirts, crossed-collar skirts, improved Song pants, straight-collar shirts, beizi, wide-sleeved shirts, stand-collar shirts, crossed-collar short jackets, stand-collar straight-collar short jackets, vertical-collar split-collar long jackets, round-collar robes, straight-collar cloaks, and improved capes, from pattern making to sewing. The book includes detailed size diagrams and sewing illustrations, making it easy for beginners to follow the examples and make their own set of Hanfu.
Please share your suggestions for fabrics and cutting diagrams for making Hanfu: Hanfu comes in various styles. Summer is the season for high-chested dresses, mid-waist dresses, straight-collar dresses, and beizi, while winter is the season for quju, coats, and cloaks. There are no specific fabric restrictions for Hanfu, mainly focusing on comfort. Therefore, cotton and linen are commonly used. Summer clothes are light and often made of chiffon-like fabrics. When choosing materials, avoid reflective and eye-catching fabrics like satin, as they look bad and are uncomfortable to wear. Regarding cutting diagrams, there are many in the image library of the Hanfu Bar, where there is a dedicated folder for cutting diagrams. You can check it out there.
The paper pattern refers to drawing the pieces of the Hanfu according to the design style and size requirements through professional calculations, facilitating subsequent cutting. After drawing the paper pattern, adjust it proportionally according to the person's height and print it out. As shown in Figure 25, this is the paper pattern of a Hanfu raincoat drawn in AI software. The paper pattern consists of the top, bottom, sleeves, collar edge, side edge, hem edge, and sleeve opening, which can be reused as needed. Figure 25 Paper Pattern Diagram
Author: Laichang Regarding detailed clothing production, I won't elaborate here; refer to other Hanfu production posts for measurement methods, sewing techniques, and detail handling. I will only discuss several methods of designing Quju Hanfu patterns and cutting notes. Firstly, regarding how Quju wraps. Here, I provide visual effect diagrams of Quju after wearing and decomposition diagrams of wrapping methods. If you still find it unclear, you can cut out the attached cutting diagram on paper and paste it into a complete garment, then practice according to the wrapping order to understand it. (If any description confuses you, you can use the paper cutting method to assist in understanding).
Lay the fabric flat on the table. Using a wooden ruler, measure the full sleeve, sleeve root, sleeve opening, garment length, and unfolded width according to the cutting diagram of the straight-collar half-sleeve. Draw the outline with chalk or a pencil and cut it out with scissors. Measure the neckline width and cut a strip of fabric along the drawn route to use as the collar. Note that the fabric strip cut here is a bit narrow; you can cut it slightly wider for a better appearance. Additionally, cut two strips of fabric to use as ties, sewn slightly below the chest. This completes the production of the half-sleeve.
Looking at the previous diagram, many places seem too casual, right? That's why many people complain that Hanfu doesn't fit comfortably. Is the wisdom of the ancients limited to this? Proportional cutting is not only for cheongsams. Proportional cutting is a pattern-making method that has been used in traditional Chinese clothing since ancient times. Therefore, every straight and curved line in Hanfu has its formula. All garment-making techniques are complementary to excellent patterns. Our traditional costumes are not only exquisite in craftsmanship but also in pattern-making.
Most Hanfu uses flat cutting, and before production, a “flat layout” must be made based on relevant historical artifacts. Hanfu buyers who understand a bit can judge the correctness of the pattern, the adequacy of the allowances, and the overall embroidery effect by observing the flat layout. Therefore, whether Hanfu sellers on Taobao display the flat layout in the product details page affects buyers' purchasing decisions. For experienced Hanfu enthusiasts, sellers who do not show the flat layout are considered unprofessional.
Seeking a manual for making a mid-waist Hanfu, cutting diagrams, and fabric suggestions: Here, I'm a newbie. For cutting diagrams, the Hanfu Production Research Bar has drawings. For fabrics, cotton, brocade cotton, chiffon, etc., are fine. Cotton and brocade cotton, if lined, should use a lining with good drape for pleating and ironing to prevent the skirt from puffing out [of course, if you're making a single-layer skirt, ignore me…]. Chiffon shouldn't be too slippery or thin; it's hard to handle… Silk… seems very delicate; if you're not rich and new, forget it… Tulle… looks beautiful when made by Sining Pavilion, but in your hands, such a stiff and uneven fabric… Brocade satin… easily gives a cheap feeling; it's okay for collars, but not suitable for large areas…
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