If you watched the 2024 Henan TV Spring Festival Gala, you would definitely be impressed by Yang Mi's portrayal, as she single-handedly interpreted the classic costumes of the Tang, Song and Ming dynasties in Hanfu.
The beauty of Chinese Hanfu permeates Chinese civilization, with clothing being of utmost importance in daily life. Whether it's the elegance of the Han dynasty, the gracefulness of the Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern dynasties, the grandeur of the Tang dynasty, the refinement of the Song dynasty, or the solemnity of the Ming dynasty, the styles of the Tang, Song and Ming dynasties are undoubtedly the epitome of classic Hanfu.
The high bun and chest-length dress of the Tang dynasty were essential for women, with color combinations ranging from harmonious to boldly contrasting, reflecting the flourishing exchange and collision of exotic cultures during that period, presenting an atmosphere of openness. The Hanfu Shidai (HAN TIME) provided detailed interpretations of these three styles, allowing us to delve into their essence.
Hairpins and hair ornaments adorned with floral patterns became fashionable, with Dunhuang being a treasure trove of floral patterns that led the trend of the Tang dynasty. The popular hair combs of the mid-Tang dynasty softened the distance between the high bun, presenting a balanced and magnificent overall look.
Remember these main elements when it comes to Tang-style attire: Huadian, floral patterns, and high buns. Bold contrasting colors can be used in the color scheme, but this makeup style is not aimed at strict historical accuracy, but rather a softened Chinese-style makeup.
The clothing style of the Song dynasty is slightly more refined and gentle. Yang Mi wore a Tuan crown, flower hairpins, and jade accessories on her head, with an inner layer of a Beizi and an outer layer of a wide-sleeved shirt, complemented by a ceremonial accessory, the Xiapei, representing the attire of noble women in the Song dynasty.
In terms of colors, low saturation colors, similar to the Morandi color palette, are often used, maintaining a certain level of grayscale in the color scheme. Combinations of hibiscus and lotus colors within the same color range create an overall conservative and dignified look.
The elegance of wearing floral hairpins in the Song dynasty extended not only to women but also to men, who would adorn seasonal flowers according to poetic inspiration or festive celebrations. This trend became popular during the Song dynasty.
Pearls were the most beloved accessory for women during this period, whether they were applied to the cheeks or forehead as pearl makeup or worn as long strands of pearl earrings. The use of pearl and jade accessories on the head truly showcased the deep love for pearls among Song dynasty women. In addition, there was the crown, which could be made in various styles such as mountain-shaped or shell-shaped, serving as an embellishment for the face in place of the high bun. If you appreciate the attire of the Song dynasty, then pearls, floral hairpins, and crowns are essential elements.
The popular attire for women in the Ming dynasty was the Aoqun, which consists of an upper garment and a skirt, with the “Ao” being a double-layered garment with an inner lining. The collar styles include stand-up collars, round collars, square collars, and crossover collars. Yang Mi's outfit in this style resembles that of a Ming dynasty noblewoman in a painting.
Each dynasty has its own portrayal of noblewomen in paintings, and since the style of these paintings is not limited to the contemporary era, they can be imaginative. The borders of the garments in the paintings are often depicted with meticulous floral patterns, arranged in a regular geometric pattern. The color scheme of this outfit belongs to the contrasting colors of bright red, apricot, and willow green, reflecting the elegance of the Ming dynasty.
The hairstyle in the Ming dynasty was mostly the “Di Ji”, which involved using a wig to create a high bun and adorning it with various gold accessories. This type of attire also aligns with the aesthetic standards of Ming dynasty noblewomen.
Satin best exemplify Ming dynasty clothing, with traditional patterns applied to them, exuding a sense of understated elegance. The most common pattern in the Ming dynasty is the intertwined branch pattern, often featuring intertwined branches and flowers and birds, reflecting literary connotations.
If you appreciate the Ming dynasty style, then the “Di Ji” hairstyle, gold accessories, and silk with hidden patterns are preferred elements for dressing.
Although Yang Mi's interpretation may not be an exact replica, it showcases the fusion and application of the styles of the Tang, Song, and Ming dynasties with modern makeup, presenting a traditional yet fashionable spirit. As the Lunar New Year, it is an opportune time to embrace a new trend of Hanfu. Which style do you like the most?
