On the day of the Li Bing Culture Festival, a traditional and solemn coming-of-age ceremony, the ji li (ancient coming-of-age ceremony for women), was also held at the Nanchiao Square in the Dujiangyan Scenic Area. Two young women on the verge of adulthood wore traditional Hanfu and, under the guidance of a master of ceremonies, performed the ji li ritual strictly according to ancient etiquette. After several steps including the well-wisher's blessing, the formal guest placing the hairpin, the recipient receiving a new name and blessings, the initiate offering wine to the earth, and bowing in gratitude, they completed the traditional coming-of-age ceremony in front of 500 fellow Hanfu enthusiasts and tourists, marking their official entry into adulthood.
The head ornaments of ancient imperial concubines were diverse, with various materials used in their production. First, from the composition of the headdress, it included hairpins, hair combs, and diadems. Hairpins and combs were the most common type of hair ornament for ancient women; even men wore them during the Ming Dynasty. By the Qing Dynasty, styles of hairpins and combs became increasingly varied, becoming exclusive accessories for women. Whether commoners or nobles, almost everyone would wear them. The concubines in the imperial harem had even more styles of hairpins and combs, mostly made of gold and silver, adorned with all kinds of gems and jewels, and their styles could reflect the hierarchical status of the women in the harem.
Every time there was a banquet or public occasion in the palace, we would see the varying levels of the concubines' headwear, mainly because the head ornaments of the imperial concubines served another purpose – representing their identity. The ranking of seniority was determined by their headwear. The empress's headdress was particularly dazzling, followed by that of the imperial noble consorts, then the consorts, and so on. The splendor of the headdresses differed among ranks. Generally, even if a concubine possessed more eye-catching headwear, she wouldn't dare to wear it on such occasions, lest she inadvertently upstage the imperial noble consort or the empress, leading to future misfortune. Additionally, the palace maids also liked to wear head ornaments, but theirs were relatively simple and understated, incomparable to those of their mistresses. Therefore, wearing head ornaments was a symbol of status for ancient women, and this is why they had to wear them.
The skirts of women's Hanfu are large and tube-top style. During the Han Dynasty, light gauze could be added. The overall look makes girls appear very playful and cute. Wearing Hanfu also requires matching hairstyles. So for ancient times, unmarried girls were best suited to wear Hanfu. Nowadays, many young people enjoy cosplaying in Hanfu, and Hanfu culture has a long history. It should be rooted in our ancient Confucian clothing system, so most people wear Hanfu to promote Hanfu culture and Confucian culture. We all know that Han Dynasty people were very particular about their attire, which is why this kind of Hanfu has not become outdated even now. The editor once saw a girl wearing Hanfu and styled in the Han Dynasty fashion at a mall, looking very youthful and adorable, wearing innocent and pure gauze skirts, without the charm of Jiangnan women, yet with an added touch of elegance, making this Hanfu culture truly capable of beautifying girls.
The definition of traditional costume is [“clothing worn by ancient people”], so all unearthed clothing artifacts and costumes depicted in ancient paintings should be considered traditional costumes. Of course, traditional costume also has another meaning, which is [“clothing made to imitate ancient attire”], in which case, traditional costume is a time-specific concept of clothing, no different in form from Hanfu. At this point, distinguishing between traditional costume and Hanfu depends on the wearer's attitude. If the wearer considers themselves imitating an ancient person, playing the role of an ancient imperial concubine, then their clothing is defined as traditional costume. If they believe they are wearing ethnic attire, then what they wear is Hanfu.
Not only status, but age can also be displayed through ancient Chinese headwear. In ancient times, children would tie their hair into two knots on top of their heads, resembling horns, hence the term “zongjue” was used to refer to childhood. Ancient women would generally start tying their hair up and securing it with hairpins after the age of five, indicating adulthood. In ancient times, men would undergo the rite of capping at the age of twenty, signifying adulthood. Thus, being able to wear a hat was a mark of adulthood, demonstrating the importance of hats in ancient China.
Nowadays, there is a trend of Hanfu fever. I wonder, did ordinary people in ancient times wear the same kind of Hanfu that is popular online nowadays? That kind of attire was probably only worn by the ancient aristocracy, right? Currently, the Hanfu seen on platforms like Douyin is basically modern industry-produced silk and cotton imitations. Not to mention the poor, even high-ranking officials couldn't afford such garments. The ethereal and fairy-like appearance is likely only worn by the emperor's concubines. Ordinary wealthy people wore refined cloth, while commoners wore coarse cloth garments. There's talk of respecting culture, but wearing palace attire in the name of Hanfu culture is misleading. If one truly respects history, everyone should switch to wearing coarse cloth instead. This is akin to the situation during the transition from the Ming to the Qing dynasties. After the fall of the Ming Dynasty, would you dare to wear Ming official attire during the Qing?
In ancient times, with its strict hierarchical system, clothing and jewelry were important symbols of status. Therefore, the length of the garment hem and the colors that could be used would differ based on rank. Even within the palace, only favored concubines and those of higher rank were entitled to wear long robes, while others and the serving eunuchs and palace maids did not have this privilege. Improper attire could lead to severe consequences. Thus, it was even less likely for the poor in ancient times to possess such garments. Farmers, for instance, who worked in the fields daily, could not afford such luxurious attire, and even if there were no regulations on clothing hierarchy, wearing such clothes would hinder their work efficiency, being impractical. Hence, common folk typically wore short jackets made of coarse cloth, which were simple, convenient, sturdy, and warm.
A hairpin in ancient times was made of materials such as bone, horn, or ivory. Can you guess the age group for wearing this headdress? It was used by adult women in ancient China to pin up their hair and secure it; it also represented a woman's coming-of-age. Historical records such as the “Yili – Shi Hun Li” state: “When a woman is betrothed, she is given a hairpin and henceforth addressed by her given name.” This is similar to the coming-of-age ritual for ancient men. Hairpin Jia refers to women's ornaments and also to women; Hairpin Er was commonly used by ancient women to adorn their hair and ears. Images sourced from the internet, used for reference.
Additionally, the imperial concubine Zhang Lihua, favored by Emperor Chen Shubao of the Chen Dynasty, was deeply appreciated by the emperor for her beautiful hair adorned with accessories. It is said that Empress Ma of Emperor Liu Zhuang in the Eastern Han Dynasty once stood out among all the beauties in the palace with her gorgeous hair, winning his affection, leaving other concubines feeling inferior. It seems that ancient women placed great emphasis on their hair, even considering it a beauty standard and taking great care of it.