hanfu dress

I thought Zhou Jieqiong's Hanfu was impressive enough, but unexpectedly, Si Yiner is the true goddess of Hanfu! Zhou Jieqiong is a popular singer from mainland China and her Hanfu style, from headwear to clothing, is simple yet elegant, exuding a fresh and graceful beauty. Her face is also quite charming, and this ancient costume style suits her well. I thought Zhou Jieqiong's Hanfu was impressive enough, but unexpectedly, Si Yiner is the true goddess of Hanfu! Zhou Jieqiong's Hanfu photoshoot at the Forbidden City is incredibly beautiful! She really suits ancient costumes! Tencent Video Zhou Jieqiong's Hanfu photoshoot at the Forbidden City is incredibly beautiful! She really suits ancient costumes! Recommended for You Auto-play 0:0 Gong Jun's seaside photoshoot, with a strapless vest and jeans, looks clean and refreshing, with well-defined muscle lines 05:33 The most famous red and white event band in China. Although the Hanfu of the above two individuals is very impressive, it wasn't until seeing Yang Chaoyue's Hanfu that I was truly dazzled. This is Yang Chaoyue's ancient costume makeup photo for her TV drama. Used to seeing modern Yang Chaoyue, when you see her in Hanfu, it's a different effect. However, if I were…

Today's article introduces a Ming Dynasty style Hanfu suitable for summer, it is a sheer fabric parallel opening Hanfu shirt with a standing collar. Now let’s take a look at the history of this outfit and how to wear it.   History of Sheer Fabric Shirt In ancient China, it was quite common for men to be bare-chested during the summer, but of course, this was not the case for ladies, so they would wear fewer layers and sheer fabrics inside of their homes. You might have seen this particular style of Hanfu been called many different names in Chinese, so let’s first quickly go through these names and their origins. The standing collar was a popular element in women’s fashion during the late Ming Dynasty, so according to the naming conventions of the Ming Dynasty, this style can be described as "竖领对襟纱衫", which translates into sheer fabric parallel opening shirt with standing collar. Ladies commonly wore this inside of their homes or in private areas as it is sheer and informal. During the Qing Dynasty, this style was labeled as Pi Feng (披風), which is a type of outerwear, the materials used became thicker and heavier, making them more…

With the increasing popularity of Hanfu, more and more people are fond of it. The accessories that match Hanfu are countless, including bracelets. From ancient times to the present, the styles, designs, and materials of bracelets have evolved, giving people more choices. In ancient times, women wore jade bracelets on their wrists, presenting a graceful demeanor described as "皓腕凝霜雪" (white wrists as clear as frost and snow). Nowadays, bracelet styles have become increasingly diverse, making it convenient for people to match different clothing styles. Below are some different styles of bracelets that can be paired with Hanfu. Come and see if there's anything that catches your eye. A bracelet is a decorative item worn on the wrist made of gold, silver, jade, etc. According to its structure, it can be divided into two types: one is a closed circular ring, mostly made of jade; the other has an opening or several chain pieces, mostly made of metal. According to the material used in production, it can be divided into gold bracelets, jade bracelets, etc. The functions of bracelets can be roughly divided into three aspects: showing status, beautifying the arm, and promoting health. When wearing bracelets, note that ordinary bracelets…

Han-style wedding attire: Zhou-style wedding clothes, Tang-style wedding clothes, Ming-style wedding clothes. Hanfu from various dynasties: Han, Wei-Jin period, Tang, Song, Yuan, Ming and other dynastic costumes. Qixiong ruqun, qiyao ruqun, daxiu shirts, Wei-Jin style, bai zi, Song pants, feiyu clothes, yesa, tie li, dao pao, zhizuo, yuanling pao, aoqun, mamian skirt, zhiju, quju, xuan end, lan shirt, zhaojia, tanling, banbei, duanduo, Jin-style, and many other styles of Hanfu. Dance costume series: Jimingyue dance costume, Caiwei dance costume, Jinghong dance costume, etc., folk dance costumes, classical dance costumes, Han dance, drum beating costumes, etc. Children's performance costume series: rental of children's Hanfu costumes from various dynasties, customization of children's standard form Hanfu and modified Hanfu, etc. Props rental series: rent wigs, ancient style headwear, boots, embroidered shoes, qiaotou shoes, gong shoes, leather belts, oiled paper umbrellas, folding fans, round fans, flutes, hats from various dynasties, etc. Chinese style clothing is becoming increasingly popular; whether it's young women or children, they all like to wear ancient Chinese Hanfu dresses because not only are the clothes beautiful, but also the people wearing them will have a different demeanor. Especially now with children's Hanfu dresses, there are various styles, some suitable for summer,…

Speaking of the Dragon Boat Festival customs, we can certainly think of many. In addition to delicious Zongzi, dragon boats, are also about decorating objects that symbolize good luck to drive away poisonous, as well as a variety of commemorative activities. But do you know what costume elements were used in the Dragon Boat Festival throughout history? Today, let's follow the Hanfu Culture Society and take a look!   Catering to the festive atmosphere, the ancient dressing ideas are generally based on the corresponding seasonal elements, these pattern elements decorated on clothing and accessories. Undoubtedly, in the Dragon Boat Festival, the most common of these patterns is the Wu Du (五毒, five poisons) patterns. Wu Du patterns In the ancient view, the lunar calendar in May is not a good month, that May is prone to disaster, and the fifth day of May, that is, the day of the Dragon Boat Festival is particularly dangerous. Therefore, the ancients called the lunar month of May for the "evil month (恶月)", also known as the "poison month (毒月)", and the Dragon Boat Festival this day (May 5) is called "evil day (毒日)". Therefore, the main activity of the Dragon Boat Festival is…

Introduction Chinese Hanfu, as an integral part of traditional Chinese culture, has always been regarded as a symbol of spirit and an embodiment of elegant art. With its unique style and charm, Hanfu has attracted an increasing number of people to join the ranks of Hanfu enthusiasts. This article will introduce the origin, evolution, and modern significance and development prospects of Hanfu. Origin and Evolution Hanfu originated from the Han culture of ancient China and played an important role in China's five-thousand-year civilization. The earliest Hanfu can be traced back to the Western Zhou period, gradually evolving into the styles of the Zhou, Qin, and Han dynasties. The Han dynasty was the peak of Hanfu style, showcasing luxurious, elegant, and noble characteristics through the production techniques of silk and other noble garments and embroidery. With the evolution of history, the style of Hanfu also underwent some changes. During the Wei, Jin, Southern, and Northern Dynasties periods, it became more loose and comfortable. In the Sui and Tang dynasties, Hanfu gradually combined with the styles of the Western Regions, further demonstrating the integration and exchange of Eastern and Western cultures. The Song dynasty was an important period for Hanfu, at which…

August 23 is the "Chu Shu (处暑)" in China's 24 solar terms, "处" is mean: "leave", "暑" is mean that "summer". It means that the heat of summer has passed and the prelude of autumn has slowly opened. Today, I bring you some suggestions on the style of Hanfu. They are suitable for wearing when the weather is slightly cooler. Stand collar ao dress (立领袄裙) The weather starts to cool down, so we need to keep warm in early autumn. Stand collar Ao dress fabric selection is generally moderate thickness, if cold can also be appropriate in the clothes wearing clothes to keep warm. Duijin ruqun (对襟襦裙) In autumn, mountain flowers are romantic and suitable for wearing a pair of Duijin ruqun to go out. And the Duijin ruqun is more convenient to handle, if you go out, the action is also more convenient. Crossed collar ruqun (交领襦裙) The crossed collar ruqun is warmer than the skirt, and you can wear thermal underwear under the jacket. In the cool weather. Vertical collar Cape ( 竖领披风) The vertical collar cape is lighter than the stand collar Ao dress. It can also wear a sling, or warm clothes, if the weather is…

Introduction: Chinese culture has a long and profound history, with Hanfu being one of the traditional costumes that carry thousands of years of history and cultural heritage. As a lover of Hanfu, I am deeply attracted to the charm of Xi'an Hanfu. Xi'an, as the capital of Shaanxi Province, is not only an important cradle of Chinese historical culture but also a significant place for inheriting Hanfu culture. This article will introduce in detail the characteristics, charm, and significance of Xi'an Hanfu in contemporary society. I. Characteristics of Xi'an Hanfu 1. Fabric and Patterns: Xi'an Hanfu generally uses silk as the basic fabric, with exquisite silk patterns and embroidery showcasing the prosperity and wisdom of ancient Chinese civilization. The patterns on Hanfu are mostly natural landscapes, flowers, birds, insects, etc., conveying an attitude of closeness to nature. 2. Tailoring Design: Xi'an Hanfu mainly features loose robes and wide sleeves, abandoning the tight-waist and leg-binding styles popular in the later Tang Dynasty, emphasizing comfort. The characteristics of Hanfu are softness and comfort, with a high degree of wearability and fluidity. 3. Accessories and Hairstyles: Xi'an Hanfu pays attention to details, often adorned with exquisite gold and silver trimmings at the cuffs…

To prepare materials, conceive creative ideas, and learn the basic methods of making traditional costumes with ultra-light clay, first gather the raw materials needed for ultra-light clay and tools required to create these costumes. We need a variety of colors of ultra-light clay. Additionally, we need a conceptual design of our character in traditional costume, breaking it down into several steps for the process. When working on this, we can divide it into parts such as head, hair, upper body, lower body, waistband, clothing, and arms. The specific operations of the ultra-light clay traditional costume tutorial are as follows; if you cannot come up with a concept, you can watch an ancient costume movie, record the appearance of the character in traditional costume, analyze it, and then start making. For making the head, first prepare white ultra-light clay. Slightly knead it until it forms a smooth ball. Then, carve or press indentations or protrusions for eyes, nose, and mouth on the ball. Use black ultra-light clay to form the eyes, placing them in the eye indentations, and add tiny white round ultra-light clay pieces on top of the eyes. For the mouth, use red ultra-light clay and place it in…

Today is the first day of the Chinese Lunar New Year, so " hanfuhouse " wishes you all happy new year and all the best in the year of the ox. We have previously introduced you to the use of red in Hanfu. In terms of color, there are more and more options available to women in the modern time, and today, Hanfu Time brings a new choice: Lilac Purple in Hanfu. Romantic Lilac Purple Hanfu The rich lilac purple color is quite refreshing, and can be easily managed as a winter color or spring/summer color scheme. In the Chinese traditional color, lilac purple is light purple, because the color resembles lilac flowers and named. In the late Ming dynasty novels, it is common to see young attractive women wearing lilac-colored clothing. Similar colors are violet, pale pinkish purple, Dai purple (黛紫), and so on. Easy to Master Lilac Purple Hanfu Many people are afraid of not being able to hold lilac purple color, in fact, the light lilac purple is better than any other purple to master, and presents a different texture and warmth, gentle without losing personality. You can start by trying purple + gray, purple + black,…

However, if you are going to buy, make sure to get the authentic ones. There are some that cost a few hundred but the quality is not great! They can also range up to 20000! If you want better quality, go for the ones around 200! If you just want something that looks good, those costing a few hundred will work as well. I really like Hanfu and am planning to buy some too; mainly focusing on the fabric and style. I saw a set that was quite nice for a little over a thousand, which isn't too expensive. There are cheaper options available for a few hundred. The only way to get something both cheap and beautiful is to make it yourself, after all, most Hanfu is handmade. The cheaper ones cost around 100 RMB, while the more expensive ones can be around 300 RMB. Is it too expensive to see a Tang-style top on Taobao for over 400 RMB? Hanfu and Tang-style clothing are completely different, and yes, that does seem expensive. Uh, are you talking about Hanfu or Tang-style clothing? Hanfu is for the Han people, while Tang-style clothing is derived from Manchu styles. What material? What…

Founded in 2009, the Heaven's Ancient Style Photography Studio is the first ancient style and Hanfu photography studio in Taigu, specializing in ancient style and Hanfu clothing photography. We have a professional team and post-production services, providing makeup, clothing selection, in-store real scene shooting, various experiential tours, ancient costume photography souvenirs, and photo album production, fully recreating ancient life. The main categories include individual portraits, children's portraits, Hanfu weddings, and family portraits. The beauty of Hanfu, elegant and substantial, is embodied in this article. It is understood that this event was initiated by Jinzhou Han Yun Society and hosted by Xingren Bamboo You Ting Hanfu Team. The Xingren Bamboo You Ting Hanfu Team was established in January 2018 and currently has more than 50 Hanfu enthusiasts. The team is mainly dedicated to learning, promoting, and inheriting traditional Chinese Hanfu and Han culture, aiming to integrate Han culture harmoniously with modern lifestyles. The team aims to promote Chinese culture, advance the revival of Huaxia, showcase the elegance of Hanfu and the etiquette of Huaxia, enrich life through learning and exchanging traditional culture, and advocate the daily use of Hanfu, guiding Huaxia values. Layered and interwoven, the ancient charm lingers long. The…

I. Preface Hanfu, as one of the significant representatives of traditional Chinese attire, embodies the profound cultural history and rich artistic connotations of the Chinese nation. As a lover of Hanfu, I am deeply attracted by its unique charm and also aspire to personally craft a piece of Hanfu for myself. This article will provide a detailed introduction to the materials, steps, and precautions involved in making Hanfu. II. Preparation of Materials 1. Silk Fabric: Selecting high-quality silk fabric is key to creating Hanfu. Generally, it is recommended to choose natural fiber silks or cotton-linen blends to ensure the texture and comfort of the garment. 2. Thread and Needle: Choosing suitable thread and needle is the basic tool for making Hanfu. Typically, one can opt for high-quality threads such as silk or cotton threads, along with embroidery needles or weaving needles that are appropriate for the fabric. 3. Sewing Machine: A sewing machine is an indispensable tool for making your own Hanfu. It helps us neatly sew the fabrics together, ensuring the overall quality of the Hanfu. 4. Auxiliary Tools: Scissors, measuring tapes, air-drying, irons, etc., are essential items that help us better complete the production of Hanfu. III. Steps…

The Song Dynasty (960-1279) gave birth to the oriental style top that is very suitable for modern wear, and when you see the Song Dynasty Hanfu, you know that the ancients could be so fashionable. Daily Oriental Style Top Many people think of long dresses, wide sleeves, and loose robes when they talk about Chinese Hanfu clothing. It's these stereotypes that make many people who want to try on Hanfu lose faith in the idea that they are all like this and not at all convenient to wear. In fact, the Hanfu also has daily form, such as the Song style Hanfu, which is not only good looking, but also suitable for daily wear. The Song dynasty is more repressed about human nature for ideological reasons, so both the literary and costume aspects are gradually becoming very simple and daily. Of course, this is just to say that it was the Song Dynasty clothes of the time, now we see the Song style Hanfu, although the form is correct, the fabric and pattern of the clothes have been improved, more in line with the modern people's aesthetic. Classic Matching (1) During the Song Dynasty, girls wore the most: airplane sleeve…

There are more and more palace costume dramas, and the attire of many elderly ladies from prominent families is very elegant and luxurious, filled with charm, their every frown and smile bearing the traces of time. This grandma's outfit is actually imitating the characters in TV dramas, so when she appears before everyone, people easily associate her with grandmas in TV dramas. Therefore, they feel that it is natural for her to wear Hanfu and believe she grew up wearing it. The images of women in traditional Hanfu quju costumes are truly beautiful. China has a long history, each dynasty possessing different styles and designs of clothing, each with its own unique charm and characteristics. Nowadays, with the popularity of various historical costume dramas, costume designs have become increasingly favored by the public. The gracefulness and luxury attract the attention of modern audiences. Everyone must have watched the classic TV series "My Fair Princess." From the opening scene of the mobile game "Jingmen Fengyue," we can feel a strong classical aesthetic style. The loving couple on the login screen perfectly showcases the beauty of love. Once in the game, we can see that the overall art style of "Jingmen Fengyue"…

When talking about celebrity in the modern Hanfu, Shiyin will surely come to mind. She not only has been dedicated to the promotion of traditional and modern Hanfu, but also often shares the traditional Chinese culture with everyone. Shiyin shares six different styles of modern Hanfu look in her latest video, let's take a look.   LOOK 1 - Street Cool Girl Style For the first set, Shiyin chose a Ming-style Duijin Duan Shan (lapel short shirts) with a very special color clashing design, which is perfect for a cool street style look even though it is a men's style. Shiyin chose to turn down the collar, one of the corners of the shirt tucked into the bottom, and the sleeves on both sides can be rolled up. Then, she paired it with denim shorts in the same color and a leather necklace.   LOOK 2 - Fresh style The second Hanfu item is a women's semi-transparent Ming-style Li Ling Duijin Duan Shan (standing collar lapel short shirts) with a very fresh design. Wearing a camisole inside, unbuttoning the shirt, turning the collar out, and tying a knot in front of the waist. The bottom with light-colored denim shorts or…

Part One: Overview of Hanfu History Hanfu, as one of the representatives of traditional Chinese clothing, has a long history and rich cultural connotations. In ancient times, the Han people regarded Hanfu as a symbol of status and position, so its design and matching were very particular. With the changes of the times, Hanfu has been valued and passed down by Hanfu enthusiasts in modern times, becoming a unique fashion element. Part Two: Traditional Hanfu Matching 1. Men's Hanfu Matching The design of men's Hanfu emphasizes dignity and elegance; the clothes are mainly divided into upper and lower parts. The common styles of tops include long robes and jackets, which can be chosen according to seasons and occasions from silk, red, and other different styles and colors. The bottoms are mostly long trousers made of silk, which can be paired with embroidered shoes or high boots to increase the overall sense of nobility. Headwear is mostly hair accessories, kerchiefs, etc., which can be selected according to the needs of the hairstyle. 2. Women's Hanfu Matching The design of women's Hanfu pursues elegance and gracefulness; the clothing pays more attention to the display of curves and lines. Traditional women's Hanfu mainly…

Girls typically let their hair grow and tie it into small topknots or braids. This is similar to the hairstyles seen in the '86 version of "Journey to the West" episode "Crossing the Heavenly River," where Sun Wukong and Zhu Bajie transformed into a boy and a girl. The hairstyle for the boy in the show was a tuft of hair left after shaving the head, with four tufts in front and on either side. For the girl, the hair was tied into two horns, which is what the ancients referred to as "chuitiao" (垂髫) and "zongjiao" (总角). Because children's hairstyles in ancient times were relatively simple, they could represent the child's age. For example, "chuitiao" refers to children aged four to seven or eight years old, while "zongjiao" represents children aged seven or eight to fourteen years old. Hanfu, although it is part of our domestic traditional culture, still has many safety hazards in design. For instance, the hem of the skirt is too long. Children under seven generally like to run and jump, and a long hem can easily be stepped on, leading to falls that might result in fractures or concussions. There was once an incident online…

Hanfu, as a representative of traditional Chinese clothing, has once again captured the attention of many fashion enthusiasts and lovers of traditional culture due to its unique charm and exquisite design. This article will introduce five captivating hanfu outfits to you, guiding you back to the classic beauty. One, Dancing Sleeves with Azure Clouds This hanfu is made from a soft waterproof fabric featuring azure cloud patterns, blending traditional Chinese elements with modern touches. The unique oriole pleat design adds grandeur to the entire outfit, complemented by the pastel blue and rose gold color scheme, creating an elegant and graceful overall effect. The loose sleeves adorned with oriole motifs are comfortable and natural, adding a touch of luxury. Suitable for various occasions, whether walking down city streets or attending formal events, this hanfu highlights the wearer's nobility and elegance. Two, Zen Cloud Dream Zen Cloud Dream is a hanfu that embodies Eastern characteristics. It features a delicate beige hue decorated with traditional cloud patterns and ink wash floral designs, evoking a sense of Zen. Additionally, it incorporates modern tailoring techniques, making the entire set more comfortable and well-fitted. The relaxed silhouette accentuates the wearer's gentle demeanor. Whether relaxing at home…

In today's society, an increasing number of people are beginning to pay attention to and love traditional culture, one of which is Hanfu. As a representative of traditional Chinese attire, the charm of Hanfu is not only reflected in its clothing but also in its exquisite hairstyles. This article will provide a detailed introduction to the historical origins, classifications, and creation methods of Hanfu hairstyles, with the hope of enabling more people to understand and appreciate this timeless beauty from ancient times. I. Historical Origins: Hanfu hairstyles originated during the Han Dynasty of ancient China, evolving and consolidating over thousands of years to form a unique hair culture. In the Han Dynasty, hairstyles could be divided into two major categories for men and women, which later gave rise to various transformations and developments. Different hairstyles were not just about the pursuit of beauty but also served as symbols of identity, status, and social position. II. Classifications: 1. Men's Hairstyles: (1) Shaved Head: This was the initial form of Hanfu men's hairstyles. A shaved head refers to a hairstyle where all the hair is completely shaved off, showcasing the masculinity and independent personality of men. This hairstyle was suitable for men…

Who says hanfu is uncomfortable for daily use? Some people feel that hanfu is too complicated to wear, uncomfortable, and unsuitable for modern daily life. Hanfu itself is a kind of Chinese national dress that includes the everyday clothes of all the ancient Han people. Back then, no one had ever said that hanfu was uncomfortable and can't be used in daily life. Like ancient hanfu, modern hanfu is a type of clothing that can meet people's daily needs at home, travel and work. Modern hanfu? Modern hanfu is functional and elegant. With a blend of sophisticated cotton & silk fabrics, this style is easy to wear and easy to wash. It is enough to care for it by washing it in cold water on a gentle cycle and then hanging it to dry. The luxury modern women crave, whether it's layering or lounging, this piece is durable and soft. Who tend to wear modern hanfu most often - in some cases on a daily basis - are girls and boys, students and teachers, tourists and cultural workers. In some places with unique views of ancient gardens, it is required to wear traditional or modern hanfu clothing whenever appearing in…

As one of the aspects of human civilization, the color culture in traditional Chinese Hanfu costumes has a long and splendid history. The color of clothing is often a symbol of the times and has strong political significance, and is closely related to the "five colors" that prevailed at that time. Today, we will lead you to have a deeper understanding of the "blue Hanfu".   The Meaning and Place of Blue in Ancient Color Culture The so-called " Five Pure Colors" originates from the five elements, which are metal, wood, water, fire, and earth, and represent the five pure colors of blue, red, yellow, white, and black in the five directions of east, south, middle, west, and north. According to I Ching, black is the color of the sky and yellow is the color of the earth, which is why it is said that "the sky is dark blue and the earth is yellow".In addition, The Book of Rites recorded that in ancient times, the pure color was considered noble, and the color that combined two primary colors were considered inferior, and the pureness of clothing was highly valued. Blue in the five elements corresponds to the Eastern wood,…

Regarding topics about children's winter Hanfu costumes for both boys and girls, and images of women's winter Hanfu, what would you like to know? Let's delve into this together. For children's winter Hanfu costumes, Xin'an Evening News, Anhui Net Da Wan News: Green sleeves and red skirts, white-haired with white robes, when a group of cute kids meet the splendid brocade Hanfu, it will be quite a romantic scene. To celebrate the arrival of Children's Day and simultaneously let the children experience the charm of traditional culture, on June 1st, Guangde City Central Kindergarten held "Hanfu Celebration for Six One..." We provide professional costume rental services. The types of costumes we offer include: Ancient costume rentals: Tang, Song, Yuan, Ming, Qing Dynasty costumes, royal noble attire and props, scholar costumes, Gege costumes, martial arts costumes, fairy costumes, god of wealth costumes, phoenix coronet and red wedding dress, etc. Ethnic costume rentals: Tibetan, Mongolian, Uighur, Han, Indian, Kimono, Yi, Korean, and other ethnic minority costumes. Etiquette costume rentals: high-end Qipao, etiquette Qipao, Tang suits. Evening gown rentals: high and medium-grade women's evening gowns, banquet dresses, men's tuxedos, party gowns, foreign gowns. Choral costume rentals: women's choral performance dresses. Stage costume rentals:…

The unique personality of Aquarius women makes them pursue individuality and unique lifestyles. In ancient costumes, Aquarius women can wear exquisite robes and accessories, showcasing their unique personalities. The unique personality of Aquarius women makes them stand out more in ancient costumes; they can wear exquisite robes and accessories, showcasing their unique charm and personality. The unique personality of Aquarius women also makes them more confident in ancient costumes, allowing them to freely display their style and charm. Sagittarius women are a very passionate and unrestrained constellation; they like to try new things and dislike following conventions. In ancient costumes, the passionate and unrestrained character of Sagittarius women is also well expressed. Their ancient costume styles usually choose bolder designs, such as off-the-shoulder, backless, etc., which can highlight the passionate and unrestrained nature of Sagittarius women. In addition, the ancient costume styles of Sagittarius women usually incorporate elements such as fringes or lace, which can make people feel romantic and sexy. Overall, the ancient costume styles of Sagittarius women are very suitable for women who like passion and unrestraint. Sagittarius women are a very optimistic and upward constellation; they are always full of vitality and passion. In ancient costumes, the…